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Discussion Starter #1
So I started to repaint my bike, a 1986 Intruder (Suzuki), I sanded it all down, did a nice primer, and sprayed about 4 coats of paint on it. When I did it, first I got a dimpely kind of coating. As it dried, it truned into a hammered steel look. After a week or so, I wasn't happy with it because it had truned rough. When I truned to try to buff it out and polish it up, it's been a pain in my :whistle:. I've spent about 7 hours just on my tank alone, and it's ... kinda looking nice. (I'm going for the deep mirrored finish) When I truned my attention to the rear fender, well... I've buffed down to the metal in some places and it still looks rough. (like the opposite of orange peel) (dusted?) I was told to try sand paper. 1000grit and up. It helps, not its still not getting it 100%.
I've put 4 coats of paint on this SOB! 4 Coats! I shouldn't be buffing down to the metal! What did I do wrong, and how can I fix it?

another quick question, can I take it down to the metal, buff and shine, clear coat, polish and wax? would that be bad?
 

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There are paints you can buy that are three parts you mix and they give you a wet look. They are expensive and can be found at body shops or paint shops.
 

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Exactly what kind of paint did you use ??

And what kind of primer ??

It sounds to me like the paint is damaging the primer coat.
If that is the case, you will have to strip it ALL off and start over.
 

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Heaps of factors cause what you have experienced. Spraying too far away, heat, wind, moisture and if using a spray gun too much pressure and or too large a needle in the gun. The effects of incorrect paint compatibility are usually instant the top coat will lift/bubble or the base coat will or sometimes as a top coat drys. Typically this is if you try and spray lacquer type paint over acrylic. You can usually spray them other way round though.

As stated the only way to get a good finish now is to go back bare metal. A good vehicle spray paint outlet will help you and mix the correct colours. Preparation and patience is the only way to get excellent results...a light rub down between coats is also imperative as is absolute cleanliness. For small parts a simple cardboard box, open at the top to allow excess spray to escape, can be used as a spray booth...it also acts as a wind break.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I decided that at some point in the future I will repaint my bike, but in the mean time, I've picked up a new bike. A 1982 Honda Goldwing Interstate. It's currently black with gold sparkles and the gold trim, but I was wanting to paint it white with black details, and put lights under it. I haven't decided on the what color lights I want to do, but I know I want them to be tied into the break and turn signals. I want it to act like this, but I'm not sure how to make it happen.
Brake on - rear under glow dims and red under glow lights up rear tire and both saddle bags.
Turn signal on - rear under glow dims and saddle bag on correct side lights up.
Signals off - rear and front under glow is on.
Any ideas on the kind of hardware I will need, and how to wire it up? Also, suggestions on what kind of paint I should choose and how to apply it/test my equipment to give me an optimum paint job? And what color lights look good on a white motorcycle at night, I want to avoid white lights?
 

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now i might be able to help you out here,iv not long painted my VS750,my dad was a auto painter and taught me every thing he new !
first off strip it ! if you have buffered it to metal its SHOT?
lets strat from basics ! two different sorts of paint 2 pack (2k) or base over clear,2K
and cellulose paint,all so celloluse clear over base, try EBAY they do good deals on complete kits,
cellulose is the easiest to apply? just put 50% thinners to 50% paint about £20 a ltr for paint £15 for 5 ltr thinners,
2 pack is a chemical reaction,(like glass fiber) you need a hardener," 2 parts paint 1 part hardener and about %10 thinners,£20 ltr for paint,thinner is about £15 5 ltr,hardner about £20 2,1/2 ltr
2k will go over celulose, but cellulose wont go over 2 pack!!! it REACTS,
2k is not to be sprayed without a GOOD filtered mask !!!!!!! and GOOD ventilation
celly is not as bad but you still need a mask ! and ventilation
by what your saying the paint was WAY to thick ?
2/3 coats of 2K should give you a good finnish 1 light coat then a 2 good finish coats ,but its tough to polish (dries very hard) wet sand with 600 wet/dry,then 1000/then 2000
then a good polish ? dont use T CUT on 2K it leaves reidue
4/5 light coats of celloluse should dry to a high shine,if not do the sanding as in 2K but start withh 1000 wet dry then polish !
most spirt basted primmer will be fine, 2/3 coats sand smooth wet/dry 600/1000
hope this helps
 
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