[Izzy]

Hello,

I just bought my first bike. While I have been shopping for a while now, I (semi) impulsively made an Ebay purchase two days ago for a 1999 Intruder 800 which only has 15 mi on the odometer. There is a story behind it, but I won't bore you. Besides I don't know if its true or not. But the bike looks brand new, seemed to run fine when I checked it out. Drove fine too. Of course this is from a newbie who has not ridden a bike in over twenty years. So I brought it home, got it registered, tagged, etc. A friend gave me a helmet which will hold me over for a couple days till I get fitted for a new one.

Since it rained all day yesterday I waited impatiently till this morning (Sat) to take it out. Started fine on first crank. Perhaps I pushed the choke in to soon, but it stalled and I couldn't get it started again. It cranked and tried, then I guess the battery ran down cause now it only clicks. So, my first request for help from you all is ... where is the battery? BTW, I did order a clymer manual from Amazon yesterday, but I won't have it till later in the week. I'm figuring I can put a charger on the battery to help get it started again. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[DrBob]

The battery is at the very bottom of the bike, right in fron of the rear wheel between the pipes. The negative terminal is on the left (you can see the ground wire screwed to it), the possitive on the right behind a black plastic tab, sticking up above the battery box. You remove the battery from the bottom: the bottom of the battery box is hindged at the front, and it will open after removing the two screws at the back.

Intruders are very cold blooded, so let them warm up. Also, DO NOT touch the throttle when you start it or it will flood instantly and not start: just pull out the choke, pull in the clutch, and hit the starter. If the choke does not want to stay out, grab the black rubber ring that the chock comes out of and twist it clockwise as tight as you can. This will add more tension to the choke and make it stay where you put it.

 

[Izzy]

DO NOT touch the throttle when you start it or it will flood instantly and not start

Thank you DrBob. I guess if I had an owners manual I would have read about that. With the choke out it started immediately. I was very pleased. I let it warm up for more than 5 mins before I put the choke back in. Rode to the cycle store to buy a real helmet. I got a SHOIE.

The bike appeared to run fine being that I really don't know what bad would be. However, it did sputter and backfire a few times. I guess this is normal for cycles. So far I really like it. Thanks again.

 

[DrBob]

Glad to help! I love my Intruder 800- most trouble-free bike I have ever owned.

If you are sputtering and backfiring, this may be a result of the bike sitting for 5 years. Put some carb cleaner in with the next couple tanks of gas (remember you only have a 3.2-gallon tank so don't put the whole bottle in!) and it may clear up. If not, have the carbs looked at: they may need to be reconditioned (about $100 each) as the floats, gaskets, needles, etc could be out of sorts from sitting so long, or the two carbs may be out of sync.

 

[Izzy]

I'll try the carb cleaner. Is there any special brand you recommend. As for redoing the carbs and/or tuning. I hope to learn to do all the maintenance and repairs my self. While I know nothing about Suzuki's I do think myself as a menace mechanic. You know the type, I have a nice collection of tools and like to think I know or can learn how to use them. Actually I recently started a Cobra kit car project which should keep me busy on those rainy days that I can't ride. I did order the Clymer manual. Are there any other manuals you recommend?

Regards,

 

[DrBob]

The Clymer is great, and all you really need. Any name-brand carb cleaner is fine...
Did you look in the sissy bar for the owner's manual? The pad on the sissy bar pulls off, and the ignition key opens the box behind it. You might find the manual there behind the tool kit.

Intruders have only a couple things you should watch for:

You need to change the hydraulic fluid in the clutch about once every year or two, or the clutch will act funny and it will be hard to shift. This is a good idea for any bike with a hydraulic clutch, not just Intruders.

The stock front brakes will start to squeek fairly soon. It takes about 5 minutes to take them off and put some of that blue anti-rattle compound on them. Or replace them with aftermarket Kevlar pads that don't squeek.

When you change the oil, don't overfill it (exactly 3 quarts with filter change and not a drop more) or the clutch will slip.

 

[Izzy]

Did you look in the sissy bar for the owner's manual? The pad on the sissy bar pulls off, and the ignition key opens the box behind it.

Holy rice paties Bat Man! I had no idea there was a compartment in the sissy bar. Found the tool kit, but no owners manual.

I was out riding again this morning. The bike definitely needs some kind of tuning or adjustments. Not only will it sometimes sputter and backfire, but even I as a newbie can tell that it is not pulling as hard and as long as it probably should be. The bike has sufficient power, but when I wind it out or attempt to wind it up in rpm's the power or torque seams to die down much sooner than I think it should. I cant wait to get the Clymer book so I can try to tune it.

Thanks again.

 

[DrBob]

Yup, sounds like you need a little work- sitting for long periods is just not good for the carbs. But certainly a little effort and money put into the bike is more than worth it, considering you got basically a brand-new bike for the cost of a used one.
That little compartment is a great little feature, isn't it? Gives me not only a tool kit, but someplace to put the registration and insurance card, plus a little 'just in case' gas money, quarters for the air machine, and a tire guage.

 

[Arizona]

Your bike is probably back firing because it only has 15 miles on it. My first one (and my 2002 when it was new), back fired and stalled and did all kinds of stuff until I had about 200 miles on it. It has run perfectly ever since.

On the 800 it is a good idea to pull the choke all the way out, then give one good tug to make sure it really is closed. Especially if it is cold. If it stalls, wait about 15 seconds before trying again or you'll flood it.

Once they get broken in, these problems become less of an issue.
31,000 trouble free miles in 2 years on my 1400.

 

[Izzy]

Your bike is probably back firing because it only has 15 miles on it.
...
Once they get broken in, these problems become less of an issue.
31,000 trouble free miles in 2 years on my 1400.

This is good to hear. Thans for the input. I truly appreciate it.

I took the bike to a mechanic friend who told me the carb linkage was all twisted up. He straightened it out and adjusted the carbs. He also told me someone put the wrong battery in the bike. It ws physically too small and was able to move around. The battery must have moved into a position that shorted a wire cause the negative lead had some partially melted spots. This must have occured before I got the bike. He covered up the bare cable spots with electrical tape and we were able to get the battery to fit better with a small block of wood. I'll get the correct battery when its time to replace it.

My mechanic friend also told me that the fuel pump and/or the fuel system computer (don't remember what he called it) might need to be replaced as he told me the bike felt like it was not pulling strong at the top end. This was one of the issues I asked him to look at. He thinks that shorted wire could have caused this but he was not positive and was not in a position to absolutely trouble shoot either one. We agreed I would put some more miles on the bike before deciding which of the two or both to replace.

My ride home was absolutely amazing! For not doing much (or so he said) the bike idled beutifully, accelerated smoothly with lots of power, did not backfire, bark, sputter, nothing. Top end felt as powerful as anything I need. I left his shop feeling a bit dissapointed but the ride home put a smile on face I'm still wearing today.

Can't wait to take it out again today!

 

[DrBob]

Glad to hear a carb adjustment took care of you! I'm sure you will get years and years of enjoyment out of your 800.

I have had mine for 8 years and have had no problems at all. I'm on my third battery, my second set of tires, and my second set of front brake pads. Other than that, I have not had so much as a bulb burn out. I wish I could find a car this reliable!

As far a preventative maintenance, I change the oil/ filter every 3000 miles with conventional oil, change the brake, clutch, rear drive and coolant fluid once every two years (takes about an hour total), and have the valve lash checked every 10,000 miles. If you stay on top of these things, I'm sure your's will be a wonderful bike for you.

The one big problem I have with the Intruder is that there is such a large assortment of aftermarket goodies on the market, so I keep spending too much money on chrome...

 

[Izzy]

I spoke too soon!

Took the bike out for ride to run a few errands this morning. Not far from home. Ran great on my way to my first two stops - about 30 minutes timewise. Then it started with the sputtering thing at low speed and to add insult to injury it shut off when I came to a stop. Dead, starter would not spin. Lights were on and appeared to be bright. After about 10 mins of looking and poking which did nothing, it started up. Drove about a mile and came to a stop again. Same thing. This time it only took about two mins before it would start again. Drove the rest of way home with some low rpm sputtering but high rpm power seemed fine. Since it was running and I felt it would start again, I kept going past my home to the nearby high school parking lot where I started doing low speed figure 8's in first and second gear, stopping, starting, off, on, etc. trying to see if there was anything in particular that causes the engine to shut off. In about 15 mins of doing this it shut off once but started right up fine. HUMPFFFF!

While I'm angry, I gotta admit I enjoy riding, so I may as well roll up my sleeves and start looking for the problem. I'm hesitant to take it to the dealer as I don't like them. My mechanic friend told me he would be surprised if the problem is not the fuel pump or the controller under the seat. He told me the pump should cost around $200 and the controller is about $40. I guess I'll start with these items and see if problem goes away.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Izzy]

Just talked to my mechanic friend who convinced me to take it to the dealer. He recommended a place in Mt. Holly NJ, Mt. Holly Kawasaki, Suzuki. So I'm gonna take it there. I've gone this far, a little more money isn't going to kill me now.

 

[Izzy]

On second thought this bike isn't going anywhere yet. Looks like I'm gonna have to either troubleshoot the immediate problem or go get a trailer. Sheesh, there must be a rain cloud following me cause it sure looks sunny accross the street.

I believe I have an electrical problem cause now even when Idling in my driveway it just shuts off. And I mean all electrical shuts off lights, dash everything. I noticed that if I put the kickstand down and lean the bike on it the electricals come back on. I'm going to start with the frickin battery and cables and work my way out from there. Something is loose somewhere and/or there are some faulty safety switches and by golly I'm gonna fix this or .... or ..... or .... spend the summer trying! :x
OK, I'll give it the weekend then go pickup a utility trailer.

 

[Izzy]

Good news. I replaced the battery with a new (correct) one and the bike runs great again. I'm willing to guess that my mechanic friend was only half correct in diagnosing the fuel pump. The fuel pump relay was probably cutting out because the battery was bad. The cutting out problem must have been directly related to the bad battery.

 

[DrBob]

This is a fairly common problem with used Intruders, as I'm sure you noticed that the correct battery is a little on the expensive side. So people try to put cheeper (smaller) batteries in them, and have all kinds of problems with the terminals shorting out against the battery box, as you found out. Thought you had it licked though, with the wood block...but I guess not.
Glad you're ridding again!

 

[MadCow]

Good news. I replaced the battery with a new (correct) one and the bike runs great again. I'm willing to guess that my mechanic friend was only half correct in diagnosing the fuel pump. The fuel pump relay was probably cutting out because the battery was bad. The cutting out problem must have been directly related to the bad battery.

At least you worked it out eh? SWEET!