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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Okay, more here .

I know you might not want to hear this but this engine has adjustable, mechanical valve tappets and they MUST be checked and adjusted if the bike has more than 8,000 miles on it ~ almost no one ever bothers with this as it's a time consuming and fiddly job but you'd be shocked at how often I've returned a "bad engine" bike to the road with this basic overlooked maintenance item .

It may not be within your scope of knowledge / practice / ability and will require you to buy or have, feeler gauges, cranked spanners and Allen tools, possibly more .

Are you anywhere near Los Angeles ? .

I know a Motocycle repair shop in Eagle Rock (N/E L.A.) that can do this or teach you how .
You're right I haven't ever done anything with mechanical valve tappets. I don't know how to yet.
I am near Salt Lake City, Utah.
 

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Tappets are fairly easy to do...unless they are shims which are a bit more involved.

If its tappets then with the engine cold and the valve cover off you need to turn the motor over till each tappet is loose. You then use a feeler gauge to check the clearance.

Specs will be easy to find and the feeler gauge should be a sliding fit with just a small amount of resistance. The nut on the tappet is a lock nut and you undo it and adjust the tappet clearance by turning the square tappet tip....in or out depending on what the clearance has measured. Hold the square tip with pliers or similar to prevent it turning as the nut is nipped up to hold the clearance.

You do all the valve clearances in turn rotating the engine as needed to get each tappet loose this will be when the rocker arm is on the bottom of the cam lobe and the valve is closed.

I cant think that valve clearance would cause a lean or fuel starvation situation so the above is FYI.

If this is a bit too involved then a mechanic can do it for you.

There will be no fuel valve vacuum line since this is an FI bike. I wonder if the fuel pressure sensor is playing up causing the pump to either not run or only run for a short time.

If the pump is an external one then it must have a feed from the tank to it then another to the injectors. If its internal....inside the tank then it has to be submerged in fuel as stated to get a delivery. There will then be a feed from that to the injectors.

A simple test is to remove the fuel line that feeds to the injectors and see if anything comes out. You should get a constant feed....due to the pressure sensor being taken out of the equation. If you do then you have an injector fault. There will be a relay that controls them but also other sensors that tell them when to operate.

Post what happens when you remove the fuel line and we can go from there.
 

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99 % of all basic running problems are caused by tight valve tappets and incorrect ignition timing in that order .

Until they're properly adjusted you cannot touch anything else .

The amount of fuel sprayed by the fuel injectors is very small indeed .
 

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99 % of all basic running problems are caused by tight valve tappets and incorrect ignition timing in that order .
While I DO appreciate all of the good input you have provided here........
That statement is just pure BS.

Valve "lash" changes very slowly and won't have a dramatic effect on how an engine runs until it is WAY out of spec.
99% of bike owners don't even ride enough miles to make that much wear.

And with modern electronic ignition systems, the ignition timing almost NEVER is off just enough to make it run bad.
It either works right or is so far off that it won't run at all, which is exceedingly rare.

Where did you get those ideas anyway ???
 

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I agree... valve clearance being sufficient to prevent an engine running would either be so noisy due to excess clearance that it would be obvious or so tight to cause damage from a valve being left open. I suspect an injector problem....or if the fuel delivery from the pump is non existent which would possibly be fuel pressure regulator...a fuse/relay...the new pump is faulty...or any other electrical issue yet to be tracked down.
 

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O.K., sorry for the late replies, my computer crashed .

Anyways, I got my 'ideas' from extensive factory training and 50 + years of working as a Journeyman Mechanic .

I know what I'm talking about here, not B.S. . keep on floundering if you wish .
 

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I know what I'm talking about here, not B.S. . keep on floundering if you wish .
99 % of all basic running problems are caused by tight valve tappets and incorrect ignition timing in that order .
Would you like to clarify your original statement, maybe ?
If not, you are just full of crap.
And how much "experience" you claim won't change that.
 

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Often things get lost in interpretation esp on the internet. I try not to take offence and lets face it, in the end, who cares what others think of you. ;);)
 

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I was trying to make that point but others who don't apparently understand how things actually work got upset .

I was trying to help a fellow rider .
And your totally, absolutely, positively completely WRONG assertion was not helping anybody.
And neither was your throwing insults at anyone who tried to point that out.

Two strikes.
You have one more.
 
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