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Discussion Starter #21
So the code 33 in the manual says Faulty Ignition= (Open circuit detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil)

I think it may be the spark plug cap but I'm going to check both wires from the ignition coil all the way back to the fuse and the ECU.
 

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didnt you replace the coil? so much fun getting DOA parts. (dead on arrival)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes I did with an OEM Yamaha coil. I don't believe it is the coil. When I test the coils they show that they are under spec both used and new. I noticed the day the scooter showed spark it was a hot day so I'm wondering if the temperature has something to do with it. I just bypassed the check engine shut off switch and still no spark.
 

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that is strange. did you hook up the coil properly? power and trigger correct sides? could try running a jumper from your battery to the coil. the coil is grounded well? you tested the trigger wire to the computer?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I did switch the wires on the coil to make sure I didn't have them reversed and I still got no spark. I removed the paint from the frame where the coil bolts to just to make sure the coil is grounded. I did test the trigger wire which is orange for continuity. The wire that goes from the coil straight to the ECU and the multimeter beeped.

So if I were to jump the coil from the battery I'm assuming it would be the wire that doesn't go to the ECU. Also use the positive terminal I'm assuming. I'll give it a shot and let you know. I did order another coil just in case. If none of this works I will completely remove all wire covering and try to find whatever I am looking for.
 

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THAT is not a valid testing technique.
Odds are high that you will burn out the coil.
why would you burn the coil out? i thought the coil not get power as soon an the key is turned on? You can burn out points. but the coil? You know how a coil works right? they get constant power and ground and are triggered by the cdi box. i looked up to see if my working premise was right... And it was.. Here man, educate yourself. https://www.elprocus.com/capacitor-discharge-ignition-cdi-system-working/
 

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I did switch the wires on the coil to make sure I didn't have them reversed and I still got no spark. I removed the paint from the frame where the coil bolts to just to make sure the coil is grounded. I did test the trigger wire which is orange for continuity. The wire that goes from the coil straight to the ECU and the multimeter beeped.

So if I were to jump the coil from the battery I'm assuming it would be the wire that doesn't go to the ECU. Also use the positive terminal I'm assuming. I'll give it a shot and let you know. I did order another coil just in case. If none of this works I will completely remove all wire covering and try to find whatever I am looking for.
yes. but the coil should be marked for what is what. there is a positive and a trigger wire. all 2 wire coils ground through the mount bolts. but i would do your own research also before you trust some random person and risk burning something out. oh. test your crank position/ hall-affect sensor and the wire connecting it to the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
One wire on the coil has 12 volts and the other wire shows minimal voltage like 120 milivolts. The wire with lower voltage when I crank the engine the voltage increases to 8 volts but I do not see a back and fourth or should I say a on and off of voltage like a trigger while cranking. I'm starting to think it is the ECU but that would suck to buy a new one and still be no spark.

by the way the coil I just bought didn't do anything for the spark.

I put a link to the service manual if anyone wanted to look at the wiring.
http://www.filedropper.com/zuma125service
 

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No they don't.

If the power and ground are "constant", what exactly do you think is the "trigger" ??

Maybe it's not me who doesn't understand.
the trigger is basically a switch. did you read the site? it acts like the points or distributer. please know what your talking about before you make a bigger fool out of yourself. Do you know more about mechanics than me? yeah, probably. but i read up on this. coil has 2 sides, low and high voltage. the low voltage has to have constant voltage so it can charge. the high voltage side acts like a capacitor. charging a high voltage. the trigger connects the high side to the plug wire for an instant so it can dump its power to ground.
 

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One wire on the coil has 12 volts and the other wire shows minimal voltage like 120 milivolts. The wire with lower voltage when I crank the engine the voltage increases to 8 volts but I do not see a back and fourth or should I say a on and off of voltage like a trigger while cranking. I'm starting to think it is the ECU but that would suck to buy a new one and still be no spark.

by the way the coil I just bought didn't do anything for the spark.

I put a link to the service manual if anyone wanted to look at the wiring. yeah it might be bad... this might helphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYzrByJUoGY
http://www.filedropper.com/zuma125service
 

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please know what your talking about before you make a bigger fool out of yourself. Do you know more about mechanics than me? yeah, probably.
AND I (usually) know how to discuss something without throwing out insults.
You might have read up on coils but you didn't understand what you read.

The basic operation of a coil is a transformer.
The primary takes a pulse of 12 V and "transforms" it up to several thousand volts on the secondary.......which is connected to the plug all the time.

You said that the coil is connected to 12 V and ground all the time and that isn't true.
It won't work that way......and manually putting raw 12 V on the primary of a coil for more than a few seconds very well could burn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well I think I have some good news. I can get the spark plug to spark when I wiggle a certain area of the wiring harness. It's the area in the back closer to the statr and the starter and the starter relay with gas tank. I get like 4 to 6 sparks then it goes away I think I have a short some where. Hopefully I will get a chance tomorrow to open up some wiring and find that sucker.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well I get spark every time I crank the engine. The spark goes away sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I thought I had a loose connection because my wiring harness was a bit stretched. So after major wiggling and loosening of the wiring harness I was able to get some white spark for a few seconds but now it looks like the spark is more orange. I tried firing up the bike but I was unsuccessful. I sprayed starting fluid that didn't help. I wiggled the wires and that didn't help. Also I noticed when cranking the check engine light was flashing very fast it seemed like it was synchronized with the cranking. Anyways I made a video of the spark.

I have been dodging removing all the wire covering from the wires because its a lot of work but I don't see any other alternative. All the electrical connections look tight and strong. Wish me luck....
 

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That spark is fine all you need now is to find out why it is intermittent. The check engine light needs to be investigated....perhpas it is a short that is in the ignition wiring thus keeping time with the flashing light.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hey guys I have taken a break. I some how got the check engine light to stop flashing and spark is working. Beats me how I did it but it no longer flashes and the spark remains. The scooter may have been in a limp mode according to the service manual if something doesn't work correctly the ECU will shut down some other system of the bike. It still doesn't start with spark. I just wanted to update my progress. I guess I'll check for compression and maybe the fuel injection system. I think plugging the harness incorrectly may have caused this never ending loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well I checked the compression on the bike and it was at 125lbs of PSI with out open throttle and no leakage which is good. I removed the fuel injector and activated it to see if it was spraying. I didn't have anything to compare it to but it was spraying and atomizing good from what I saw. I did buy a fuel pump though I never installed it. When I tested the fuel pump it pumped out loads of fuel. A full 20oz bottle was filled within 3 cranks of the engine.

I'm trying to think what other issue can effect an engine from not starting?
Lack of air, but the throttle body has no air filter attached to it at the moment. IDK but this might as well be my last post. If I do ever get it running I'll be sure to share.
 
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