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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Suzuki Marauder SV800. The bike will not start. The bike has been sitting idle for a few years, although I would start it up every few months just to keep things moving and so the gas would not varnish things up. This past February only the headlight came on, no cranking, etc. I assumed that the battery was weak, I charged it up and a few days later I went to start the bike and I got nothing, the headlight did not even come on. I just bought a new battery since the other battery was a few years old. With the new fully chaged battery installed the engine does not crank, no headlight, no horn, etc. nothing electrical. I have the service manual and I've been checking things out, I have power to the ignition switch, relays and fuses are all good, starter solenoid is good, starter motor is good, I've tested the ignitioon switch, took it apart and tested the resistor, cleaned the contacts of the switch, tested the run and kill switches, everythings is good. all electrical connectors are connected, no bare or damaged wires, etc. Is there a common problem with this bike that I am over looking?
 

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Some comments:
The gas in it was STILL several years old and it becomes suspect after 6 months or so.
Running that stale gas into the engine was NOT a wise move.
But it had nothing to do with the electrical problem.

Then you are giving a somewhat conflicting story. First "nothing electrical"......but then went on to provide a list of things that DO seem to have power.

So there are two things that come to mind: A bad connection where the negative cable is bolted to the frame, usually at the starter OR a blown main fuse, which is usually in it's own little holder attached to the solenoid end of the main positive battery cable.

But neither of those things really matches the story you gave. Nothing really does.
When you are checking voltages, where are you connecting the negative meter lead......to the battery or to the frame ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Some comments:
The gas in it was STILL several years old and it becomes suspect after 6 months or so.
Running that stale gas into the engine was NOT a wise move.
But it had nothing to do with the electrical problem.

Then you are giving a somewhat conflicting story. First "nothing electrical"......but then went on to provide a list of things that DO seem to have power.

So there are two things that come to mind: A bad connection where the negative cable is bolted to the frame, usually at the starter OR a blown main fuse, which is usually in it's own little holder attached to the solenoid end of the main positive battery cable.

But neither of those things really matches the story you gave. Nothing really does.
When you are checking voltages, where are you connecting the negative meter lead......to the battery or to the frame ??
The problem is that the motorcycle does not crank. It will not start. My comments about the electrical items is that every item that I test appears to be good. I have current from the battery to the ignition switch. fuses are all good, the starter relay is good, I agree with your comment about a bad connection. main fuse is good, I cannot locate a location of where the negative cable is connected to the frame but I am assuming that the ground is good because I have continuity between the positive wire at the ignition switch and the bikes frame which serves as a grounding point. I've mainly been checking for continuity because I'm thinking that there is a break in a wire someplace. The bike has always been stored with fresh gas, so that's not an issue.I have kept a minimum amount of fuel oin the tank, I would drain the old gas before the winter at which time I would put in some fresh gas. I would use the older gas for my snowblower etc.
 

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My comments about the electrical items is that every item that I test appears to be good.
I have current from the battery to the ignition switch.
Well then there is SOMETHING about your testing that is not being done right.
And you can not easily measure CURRENT. You are measuring voltage.

Why can you NOT physically trace the negative cable to see where it goes ??

And finally if your meter really is set for continuity (OHMS) when you do find the open circuit the meter fuse will blow or go up in smoke. That is not a good way to test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well then there is SOMETHING about your testing that is not being done right.
And you can not easily measure CURRENT. You are measuring voltage.

Why can you NOT physically trace the negative cable to see where it goes ??

And finally if your meter really is set for continuity (OHMS) when you do find the open circuit the meter fuse will blow or go up in smoke. That is not a good way to test.
I have not traced the cable because I need to remove items to see it's path of travel. Things are like sardines in a can. I plan on tracing it tonight.
 

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TBH, if you aren't willing to do a little work to trace wires, you may as well take it somewhere and let them do it. It's like wanting something for nothing. It just doesn't work that way. JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
TBH, if you aren't willing to do a little work to trace wires, you may as well take it somewhere and let them do it. It's like wanting something for nothing. It just doesn't work that way. JMHO
I have not had much time to sit down and work on it, When I have 15 -30 minutes I've been checking and trying the common and simple things. I know I have a good ground because I've checked it with a test light, connected to the positive terminal of the battery and various points on the frame, from the starter to the ignition switch, etc. usually every car, motorcycle, etc. has a common problem with various models and years. Thinking that might be the case with my situation.
 

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usually every car, motorcycle, etc. has a common problem with various models and years. Thinking that might be the case with my situation.
Might be......but I think it is more likely that you are overlooking something fairly simple.
Can we start over with a list of symptoms, as complete as you can make it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Might be......but I think it is more likely that you are overlooking something fairly simple.
Can we start over with a list of symptoms, as complete as you can make it ?
I agree about over looking something simple.
The symptoms are. When I try to start it I get absolutely nothing, no lights, no crank, etc. absolutely nothing. My first attempt to start the bike the headlight would light up, but nothing else, no crank, etc. Thought it might be the battery sinces it's a few years old although I always keep on a trickle charge. I brought it to an auto parts store and had them test it, they said my battery was fine. But to be honest I don't have much faith in the auto parts stores these days, most of the guy are useless if they can't find a part listed in their computer they can't help you. I put the battery back in and again got no results, the headlight did not even light up this time. I bought a new battery and I still have absolutely no cranking, no lights, etc. absolutely nothing. I've tested the common problems, the starter relay, Ignition switch, starter switch, run/kill switch, checked that power was getting to the ignition and it is. tested the starter and that's fine. check all fuses, visually and with a tester, all good. looked for a loose connection, bare/shorted wire, etc. I had no problem at all starting it last year, and I have not ridin it between the last time I started it and this time that I'm trying to start it. it's always been garage kept and it's in great shape for a 22 year old bike.
 

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Checking all of those individual parts and wires is just a waste of time when EVERYTHING is dead.
There are only a few things that will cause that.

Battery itself, of course. What's the voltage there ?
Main battery cables; connection at both ends.
Main fuse.
Ignition switch power IN and OUT.
Maybe an "ignition" relay but most bikes don't have that.

That is really about it. Nothing else will cause EVERYTHING to be dead.

At this point, I can't help but think that there is a flaw in your testing technique.
 

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Removing the battery then re-installing one resulted in the headlight no longer coming on would be a clue imo. There should be a connector in the headlight shell....I would check all connections by pulling them apart then reconnecting them. Remove the Tank and check all connectors by doing the same.

It is no good visually checking any electrical connection or fuse.... disconnecting and re connecting them is the only way to be sure. I would also check the ignition switch for consistent continuity.....jiggling the key can show up any possible faults and since this is used every time the bike is run it suffers wear and tear considerably.


Good luck and keep on trying.
 

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Like Er says there must be something being overlooked. I would start fresh and check the obvious....battery, connections, kill switch, fuses....etc.
 

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Everything you mentioned has to do with electrical. Have you even bothered to see/check that the engine can be manually cranked. Remove the plugs. Cover on left side should allow you access to the main crank bolt. Put a wrench to it and see if the eng will crank thru it’s cycle
 

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I have problems with my kill switch 86 vs700. Sometimes i Have to click it back and forth run/stop multiple times before starter rolls, all lights will be on at this time. Sometimes wiggle wires going in backside of kill switch, and sometimes turning the handlebars to a certain spot or side to side. I guess right side controls have problems and i can never find a decent one on the bay. Try push starting? With key on
 
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