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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is alot of controversy on this topic, but here In Pennsylvania it will be nice riding weather again in a couple of months... that means first oil change of the new season. I got my bike with motul oil in it...strictly motorcycle oil... I have been using regular automotive oils in it for the previous 2 oil changes... castrol gtx 10w40. I haven't had any problems...only 2k miles though on regular automotive oil. Question is...what type of oil do the rest of you use?? I've heard some people say only use motorcycle oil in the bike because of the clutch since automotive oils have friction modifiers in them and blah blah blah.... but why should I pay $5.00 a quart for "special" oil when I don't think it's really that special at all??? Ok, so agree with me?? or am I doing a bad thing by using castrol gtx in my 03 gixxer 600. Lemme know!! Also, anyone around the Lehigh Valley area wanna go riding when the weather warms up?? Lemme know!
 

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You won't hurt anything by using a good quality automotive oil of the correct weight. Some bikes, however, suffer clutch slippage with friction-modified oil. You may just have to try and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
we got about the same. I have a 4wd tacoma so I love it when it snows and then I have the bike for cruisin in the summertime. also, I found tons of posts about oil. I guess i'm not the only one questioning the high prices of moto oil. here are some other oils that were reccomended for sport bikes

delvac 1 - a diesel oil that's awsome for bikes
chevron delo 400 - some guy said he used it for 20 years on various bikes and no problems
mobil 1 15w50 red cap. -supposedly these are also safe for wet clutch applications?? anyone with any more info lemme know.
 
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Delvac is what i just picked up. I was using a 5w-40 Valvoline Dura-blend semi-synthetic, but it was too light for my old GSXR. I hear that the heavy duty motor oils arnt energy conserving, which is good for bikes, and have higher levels of Zinc, which is good for wet clutches. Will keep all informed as soon as i switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi all, just keeping ya updated. I've been reding article after article and post after post at least 12 hours a day since I started this discussion. The way it seems is that for your money delvac 1 is the way to go without spending alot. mobil 1 red cap costs the same as the motorcycle oil they sell so I see no reason not to get the moto oil there. here is a cool link I found. check it out you might be suprised. http://www.micapeak.com/bike/ST1300/Consumables.html

thanks,
Kevin

PS. I have a 2003 gsxr-600. you think the delvac 1 5w40 is too thin???
 
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I just use Suzuki's basic 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I get it by the case for less than $3 a quart and I change it every 2000 to 2500 miles. With my V-Strom, 3 quarts of Suzuki-brand oil and the excellent Suzuki oil filter costs about $22 bucks out the door.

With watercooled bikes with oil coolers like the 'Strom and SV series (as long as you're not racing the bike) the oil shouldn't get extremely hot. Use the oil that's appropriate for your bike, and don't get too caught up in the brand wars.

For air/oil cooled engines, synthetic oils provide better protection (after break-in) since those engines run their oil at significantly hotter temperatures. Synthetic oils have proven to hold up substantially better under higher operating temperatures.

About filters. Don't get cheap, here. The Suzuki brand, K&N and Nappa Gold filters are excellent. They're all about $12 and are superbly made. If you buy the Suzuki filter, you can usually talk your dealer into throwing in a little copper crush gasket for the oil plug bolt for free. Whatever you do, stay FAR away from FRAM. Their filter elements are cheap cardboard and have been known to malfunction.

You'll want to stay away from friction-modified auto engine oil...it significantly affects clutch plate performance and really can do a lot of damage to the transmission over time. Yes, your engine will run fine...for awhile...

For most bikes, it isn't what brand of oil you use, it's that you use the appropriate type of motorcycle oil, that you change the oil frequently, and that you replace the oil filter with a QUALITY one every oil change. It's THAT simple, folks. Ignore the "snake oil" sales tactics. It's as rampant with motorcycle motor oil as it is with high end audio cables.
 
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For my bike, it being a 93 GSXR 750 which has been abused before me and by me, my motor just "eats" that 5x40 oil. For a new bike, it'll work fine. It just that with my motor, i am not speaking for other 93's, but mine just needs a thicker oil. You could probally explain this by the amount of miles, wear on pistons, head, walls, valves, and what not. But, for my old bike, it needs heavy oil. Any of the newer ones should be fine with a 5/10w40 oil.
 

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Okay I can see some education is in order here.

Older guys Oil/air cooled, you should all be running a full synthetic, and yes it will cost more, and the interval (change) should be somewhere around 2-2.5K miles.

Newer Units 10W40 1500-2000 miles


Any idiot running DELVAC diesel oil is a horses ass. The ash content is superhigh and leads to heavy wear, it is meant for diesel engines that spin at no more than 26-2700 rpm and need to hold heavy amounts of contamination in suspension (diesel combustion byproduct), you spin your bike motor at what 9-10 K. Come on wake up! You are talking about saving money on OIL CHANGES????? WTF, Over??

Motorcycle grade oil has much more ZINC and Phophorous in it than automotive oils, plus an additive package to withstand the shearing of the transmission, if you ever took one of these automotive oil motors apart you would see atypical wear to all of the plain bearings. I suppose most of you are using a non factory filter to save the 3 bucks as well, did you know the bypass pressure in most of the aftermarket filters is much less than the factory filter, therefore the oil stops being filtered at a lower pressure. Real good for your motor. Don't you guys think the engineers that built the thing know anything about the product??? You know better, and aftermarket companies know all and the moon is made of CHEESE, yes I say CHEESE, like some I have heard on this site.

Good luck,
Better learn bearing codes now!

E
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't know if saving money is the object here. at least it's not for me. I've used regular car oil in my bike (full synth and non synth) as well as strictly motorcycle oil in my bike. I can't tell the difference between the 2. What i'm trying to get at is why should motorcyclists pay $40 for full synthetic oil that is motorcycle specific when they can get the same thing with a different label on it for half the price. If motorcycle oil is much better than non specific oils then i'd have no problem paying for it. I would just not rather pay double the price just so that some shop owner can make a few bucks. I'd rather be well educated on what you can really put in your motorcycle and then make the decision from there. It seems most people use mobil one 15w40 red cap. That's a full synthetic oil for cars that is not energy saving. If you can get that cheaper than motul or mobil's mx4t oil then why not use it if it's just as good?? I realize a high perfomance machine that redlines at 14 grand requires a little something extra when protecting the engine. I'd just rather know the facts before taking everyone's word for it.
 
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Ahh, i forgot, you make motor oil dont you..If you check any where other than your small amount of knowldege, you will see that Delvac is actually recomened. And, if you read the manual, you can read cant you?, Suzuki says you can use up to a 20w50 oil as long as it doesnt get below like -14 degrees. I apoligize for being a jerk, but if you disagre with some one, you dont have to call them an idiot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
delvac is actually used by some professional race teams. If it's good enough for them, it's definetly good enough for me. Only thing i've changed since doing all this research is my view on fram filters. They are too cheaply made to be used on a gsxr in my view. they are one of the few filters that use cardboard and glue as a seal and also have a very low pressure reliefe valve... that means if just a small amount of it gets glogged it will be like using no oil filter at all. not to mention they use only standard filtering media. Just my view. I cut one open just to make sure and it's paper!
 
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