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Rotella is fine.
SOME of it. Some is NOT.

You need to check the certifications on whatever variety you are looking to use and be SURE
it is certified for motorcycle WET CLUTCH use.

For a few pennies more you can use T6 synthetic. I think that even has a little motorcycle on the label.
 

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When the friction modifiers first came out folks where suggesting Rotella diesel for motorcycles. So yes, as ER said. some of it is okay. T4 is another one that works fine. JASO MA2 specs is the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont want to run full synthetic in the Royal Star so I'm goin with T-4
Upon checking the back it is marked JASO MA/MA2 so it'll be fine.
Other reports I read users are extremely happy, they say less powertrain noise and smoother shifting. I'll change every 4000 mi so semi syn will work well. I'll give a report after I put a few hundred on her.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can't argue with anything that you said.......except THIS.
What possible reason could you have for saying that ??
T-4 is not a full synthetic oil only part syn. T6 is the syn. But mainly, because I dont like full synthetic, I think it makes my top end rattle more in hot temperatures at least it did in my harley until I took it out. I dont like it in hot climates and I only ride about 2-3000 mi a year right now and dont want to waste money changing full syn oil when dino or part syn is as good or better when changed every 3000 mi
cant leave oil in gearbox over a year at a time...THOSE are my reasons for not wanting to run full synthetic. I wouldn't run it if it were the same price.

I'm willing to listen as to WHY I would want to run synthetic and what possible benefits it could have for me.
 

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I'm willing to listen as to WHY I would want to run synthetic and what possible benefits it could have for me.
Look it up.

Main advantages are: More stabil viscosity. Doesn't thin out with heat or thicken up with cold as much.
Doesn't break down with age as soon.
Doesn't fail as quickly should you encounter a bad overheat condition.

I am not saying that anybody NEEDS full synthetic......except maybe race engines with a turbo......
but pretty much the whole vehicle industry agrees that it is better, mostly for severe service.
They also agree that for "normal" service straight dino or a blend is plenty good enough.

Again, if you really care, look it up.
But I suspect that you don't really care so mentioning that you have this "thing" against synthetic oil really accomplishes nothing useful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
"I am not saying that anybody NEEDS full synthetic......except maybe race engines with a turbo......
but pretty much the whole vehicle industry agrees that it is better, mostly for severe service.
They also agree that for "normal" service straight dino or a blend is plenty good enough."

It may well be better for the Royal Star but for the Harley 103
in hot temps I got a lot more knocking running full synthetic oil than with reg dino or syn blend maybe thats what prejudiced me.
I run straight Valvoline 20W50 motorcycle oil in it as I have for all my bikes. 10W40 in the others. I'll try the T4 first in the Yammie and see what she runs like, then maybe switch to T6 if no noticeable change. As you have stated for "normal" service syn blend is plenty good enough. As you know, frequency of oil changes is the best thing one can do. No more than 3000 mi or so on dino, or 5000 on synthetic and change yearly no matter HOW many miles since last change
 

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It may well be better for the Royal Star but for the Harley 103
in hot temps I got a lot more knocking running full synthetic oil than with reg dino or syn blend maybe thats what prejudiced me.
I run straight Valvoline 20W50 motorcycle oil in it as I have for all my bikes.
I don't think you are making a valid comparison there.

The Harley is AIR cooled, right ?
And they recommend a 20W50 weight for it......right ??
And most of them do NOT share oil between the engine and transmission......right ??
So you have a whole different ballgame.
If it has a dry clutch, you don't even need "motorcycle" oil in the engine.

If you put a lighter weight synthetic in it you probably should expect to notice some difference.
Not many W50 synthetic oils around but there are some. Mobil 1 just for instance.

Maybe the difference you noticed was because of the viscosity (weight) of the synthetic that you tried.
Or maybe it was just because it was a Harley. (Couldn't resist.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I figured with a name like easy rider you just naturally rode a harley...LOL
I did run 20W50 Valvoline full synthetic in the Harley, but it had an upper end knock when hot, so switched to dino 20W50 and much less upper noise, other HD riders were reporting same results, AND you are right the motor
and trans ARE separate and I DO run Mobil1 full syn gear oil in the trans.

I think that no matter WHAT you run as long as it doesnt have a big circle on it and say "energy conserving" on the bottle you could probably run anything safely (10 40 or heavier) IF you change oil every 2-3000 miles, now will a full syn vs a semi syn vs a dino matter if they're all JASO m2 certified and are changed regularly? Probably not. So, to each his own. I'll report back after I've put a few hundred on the T4 change
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nothin wrong with either one of those...I have run Mobil1 VTwin before in an HD no issues and always run Mobil1 gear oil in the trans. I have thought about tryin out a Spyder may do that b4 it's over...lots of guys ride them here and all like them that I've talked to. Learning curve on those too I expect
 

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There’s a learning curve on both Spyder and conventional trike. Some get it and some don’t. I really wish I had gone to my trike several years earlier. My wife has 2 Spyders so if I really wanted to ride one I could. But I like what I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've had a 98 wing with a dft kit and it wandered all OVER the road. Had a 14 tri glide
decent trike but motor was worn out so I traded on a new 19 TG...it really handled good but 35K was a bit much then sitting in the garage so sold it and got into this hannigan which I will say is night and day above all I've rode smooth as silk and corners beautifully. I dont think I'll be able to do much better so I'll keep this one awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Actually the solid axle on the 19 HD Tri Glide wasnt all that bad HD had a redesign in 19 and reworked the whole system as much as they could. The 98 GL1500 had the DFT kit with IRS and it was the worst just liked to wander all over the road the Hannigan is IRS and so far it is the best all had ezsteer in some form
 
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