1. Never take your stuff to the dealer.
2. You should really be leaving the carbs alone unless you are going to get a slip on or full system. OR, you are going to put it on the dyno, and have it tweaked with the stock setup.
Although I have seen lean conditions do this, It sounds to me as if it is running rich. I have had this problem on several bikes in the past running Mikuni RS-Series carbs.
Long story short, carb tuning w/o a dyno is a very time consuming process. Most dealers won't take the time to do it right. Sounds to me like they don't want to pull the carbs off again. I also wonder if they buttoned up the airbox correctly, and have correct fuel flow into the bike w/no air leaks. I have pulled carbs sometimes 4 or 5 times on a bike to get the tuning sorted out good enough to ride. That is the way of carbs. A dyno will get you in the ballpark much quicker though.
If everything is connected correctly, and it is running OK up to 3,500, then bogging, sounds like you need to drop the needles a clip or two.
If you get into the upper range and it stumbles, or doesn't pull right, then the main jets might need to be swapped. Bigger does not always mean better. Once you get it to rev OK through the rev range, synch the carburetors, then run it on the top-end under load for a bit.
Look at the exhaust, or pull a plug. You should be able to eyeball it if it is a bit lean (gray or whitish exhaust) or rich (black w/more carbon). If you come up w/a light tan, you have it in the ballpark. Of course, that is just what I have observed. Race fuel, among other things changes combustion color characteristics.
Too rich is better than too lean.
Then take it to a dyno and have it tweaked.
Of course, what the heck do I know? :lol: These are some of the things I have used over the years to help me sort carbs out.
Hope this helps somewhat.
- Ross