Quick brakes question
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Just changed the pads on my gsx600f a month ago, as far as the rear pads went just flipped the cover off the caliper removed the old ones and then slid in the new ones. The pressure on the back brake lever seemed fine and the pads stopped the wheel but i bled them for a couple of pumps on the lever just to make sure. No problems with it yet so it is worth doing considering how easy it is to do.
bleeding brakes
I know there is a right way and a wrong way to force the caliper pistons back into the caliper body. Usually we just apply pressure to piston and force it back into the body. Of course this pushes the fluid back thru the system. Nut does it better by opening the bleeder screw and letting the fluid out of the caliper body. If you will take a battery vent tube(comes with every battery you buy off the shelf) or a small plastic hose and put on the bleed screw you can catch the fluid that is forced out thru the bleeder and avoid a major mess. Be sure to top off your brake fluid after this. I have thought about converting to silicone based fluid to get away from the corrosive effect of standard brake fluid. I figure in the long haul silicone based fluid may not cause the calipers pistonst to seize from corrosion when the bike is left sitting for long periods as in storage. Since this requires a complete flushing of the brake system it is not feasible when working with several different machines in a shop situation. Besides, the customer might not want to pay for the extra work if it doesn't really seem neccessary
I know there is a right way and a wrong way to force the caliper pistons back into the caliper body. Usually we just apply pressure to piston and force it back into the body. Of course this pushes the fluid back thru the system. Nut does it better by opening the bleeder screw and letting the fluid out of the caliper body. If you will take a battery vent tube(comes with every battery you buy off the shelf) or a small plastic hose and put on the bleed screw you can catch the fluid that is forced out thru the bleeder and avoid a major mess. Be sure to top off your brake fluid after this. I have thought about converting to silicone based fluid to get away from the corrosive effect of standard brake fluid. I figure in the long haul silicone based fluid may not cause the calipers pistonst to seize from corrosion when the bike is left sitting for long periods as in storage. Since this requires a complete flushing of the brake system it is not feasible when working with several different machines in a shop situation. Besides, the customer might not want to pay for the extra work if it doesn't really seem neccessary
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