[DHaggs925]

I have a ’04 RM 250 and I am getting motor oil blown out of my exhaust. Is crank case oil supposed to be pumped into my exhaust chamber to lubricate the arms in the exhaust valve? There is nothing to stop the oil from getting through the exhaust ports to the exhaust chamber. Is something suppose to be there to so that from going through the exhaust ports and going through the pipe? Mt pipes are filled with a black gummy lining from the oil going through them. Even if you know someone that I could talk to about Suzuki RM motors I would greatly appreciate your information. Thanks…

 

[bandit12]

Could be that the exhaust gasket and washer, between the
pipe and cylinder need replaced, do it yourself for about $14
in parts or could be that you are running too much oil in your
pre-mix. Check what ratio you are running, but don't lean it
out too much. I'm 99% sure it's not a power valve problem,
if oil is coming out of your muffler tip, it will help to take it
apart, clean it out, and repack it with new exhaust packing.

 

[zookerman125]

You need to ride it "on the pipe".... in the meat of the powerband.


When I first got my 125, I rode it easy... the powerband hit was scary to me, as a first-timer. I also had lots of "spooge" leaking from my exhaust. (not from the exhaust port itself)

But now that I'm comfortable with it, I can't hardly stand to ride anywhere but in the powerband.

Just by riding at higher RPMs I noticed the spooge problem disappeared. The higher RPMs create more heat which helps burn that excess oil. I didn't need to change pre-mix ratio or jetting... just my riding technique.

I did re-pack the silencer anyway, but have not had the same problem yet.


--

 

[92 RM 125]

dont listen to these knuckleheads about changing your ratio. thats just stupid. you get one oil, and one ratio and you stick with it. with synthetic, i recomend 40:1 and for bean oil, 32:1. my recomendations for your problem:

1) is there oul leaking from where the pipe meets the cylinder? if so, replace your exhaust gasket.

2) when you have the pipe off, try to burn some of the oil out of the pipe with a blowtorch.

3) repack your silencer. a silencer should be repacked every 10-20 hrs of ride time. heres some guides how to.
http://www.palmyramx.com/race_tools/2stroke_silencer_repacking.htm
http://www.dirtrider.com/adventures/protips/141_0309_repack/


4) check your reeds for damage. just pull the read block out and visually inspect the reeds for fraying and chipping.

5) check your topend for wear. if your top end is worn, it would allow crank case oil to enter the exhaust port once it got by the piston. if it is worn past specs (find the specs in your manual) replace it immediatly to avoid serious damage and to allow the bike to perform to the best of its ability.

6) change the oil if it has been in there for more than a couple rides. (you should know how to do this, and if you dont, its in your manual)

7) jet your bike. **(very important)** chances are, your bike hasnt ever been jetted since it left the factory and the factory always jets them rich for breakin. rich jetting would cause extra spooge. heres how to jet it:

Spankys jetting guide
A correctly jetted carb makes a tremendous difference in the torque, midrange pull, top-end pull, and over-rev of your engine. If you have never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's powerband. A cleanly jetted pilot circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.
Are you fouling plugs? Many people will tell you all sorts of band-aid fixes, from running less oil, to running a hotter plug. Both are incorrect fixes for plug fouling. It's all in the jetting.
The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different, every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike, on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.
Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.
It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your engine is receiving.
Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Before you start the jet testing, Install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all across the throttle range.
Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.
As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the air screw all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the air screw for the best response.
Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The air screw position determines this for you, making it very simple. If your air screw is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.
Once you have determined (and installed it if it's neccessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the air screw for the fastest idle, it's time to tune the air screw for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the air screw slightly in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as small as 1/8 of a turn.
The air screw is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to constantly re-adjust the air screw to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An air screw setting that is perfect in the cool morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.
Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4 openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle) until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.
Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha brown or tan.
Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begine to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.
The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that here.
Keep in mind, even though this article is intended primarily for two-strokes, four-strokes also need proper jetting to perform right, although they are not quite as fussy as their oil-burning cousins. The only real difference in the two is with the pilot circuit. Two-strokes have an air screw that you screw in to make the jetting richer, ansd screw out to make the jetting leaner. Four-strokes, on the other hand, have a fuel adjustment screw that you screw in to make the jetting leaner, and out to make it richer.



:arrow: :!: Do everything i listed (seriously, dont skip anything):!: and your bike should run mint and your oil leaking problem gone. also, as the person above me said, try riding more in the top end.

 

[EastCoastMotion]

92 rm hit it right on the money there.....i had a 250R trike that did the same thing until i repacked the silencer and got all of the oil and sludge out of the pipe. Ran like a champ too after i cleanout out the plumbing.....riding in the powerband is the only way to go!

 

[muledriver]

92 RM 125 has alot of good advice........ to pull your chamber off & clean it ,get a large tub, like the big plastic storage containers you can get at Wal-mart for instance .... large enough to contain ( submerge ) your pipe. Fill it with the hottest water you can get & add lye ( drain cleaner, sodium hydroxide ) while wearing a full face shield, rubber gloves, & other protective coverings of course. Keep people & pets away from your project & let it soak 10 hrs m/l to suite your taste. This will help pull the carbon (hydrocarbons)out of the pipe. Do not put your silencer in this solution as it eats aluminium. You will have to repaint your pipe, use a scotch brite flapper wheel in a drill to clean up the pipe before you repaint it. I wouldn't repack the silencer untilmyou put the pipe back on the bike & ran it for awile as chunks of carbon will be blown out of the pipe. I've taken pipes to a radiator shop before & had them dipped, but is a little on the expensive side & hard to find a radiator shop anymore.

You don't say how many hours you have on the bike, but it's a 250 & turns half the rpm of a 125, lasts twice as long on top ends ect. My boys 2005 rm250 runs the Suzuki cci oil at 30:1 ( per the manual ) and thats what we run it at. Jetted correctly you will burn the oil in the cylinder, less spoog & more free power from burning the oil.

 

[Dave2122]

Just to clear up a couple of incorrect items.

1) If your rings are worn it will not cuase Crankcase oil (Transmission is totally seperate) to enter the cylinder. The bike will only loose power and you will get what is called blow-by. When the Fuel/Oil mixture enters the cylinder and the rings and piston are worn the mixture will try to escape past the piston and rings.

2) The Crankcase (transmission) has its own oil which lubricates the gearbox and clutch plates. It is not in any way part of the top-end lubrication. The only way the Crankcase oil will enter the cylinder is if you have a blown crank seal. If a crankseal is blown, vacume will draw oil into the cylinder from the transmission and cause excessive smoke. An easy way to check for a blown crank seal is to have the exact amount of oil that the bike requires for the gearbox (04 RM-250 calls for 750 ml). Once you have that exact amount you can run the bike for about 10 minutes then drain the oil and measure the amount. It would be a significant amount lost if a seal is bad.

3) Use the best 2 stroke Pre-Mix oil you can afford. The cheaper oils cuase more carbon build up and more plug fouling. Modern Synthetic 2T limits carbon build up and has better lubricating properties that help extend the life of the top end. You pay more for the good oil but in my opinion it is definatly worth the extra exspence.
In my RM 250 I run Motul fully synthetic at 50:1 and rejetted my carbs accordingly to my motor spec. (Porting, Pro Circuit Pipe, Boyesen Reeds, Cam 2 fuel)

 

[zippo]

Dave2122 hit the nail on the head.

You need new crankcase seals. I am having mine put in right now. I have a 2003 RM250 and the same problem. It will take a shop around 3 hours or so to fix. The cases do not have to be split. Good luck!