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I have been using a Synthetic blend for the last 2 seasons with good results. Saves a couple bucks a qt and seems better than standard oil.
 

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When I shift from 1st to 2nd I don't rotate the throttle back much when I pull the clutch in to shift gears....
Well, that pretty much describes shifting DOWN.

Where did you get the idea that it is a good idea when shifting UP ??? It isn't........unless maybe you are shifting WAY too soon.

Get the RPMs up a bit (but not racing) and drop the throttle; that is how the gear speeds will match the best.
 

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Put slight pressure on the shift lever so that when you close throttle and/or release the clutch, the tranny shifts at the time when it's best synchronized. This, as opposed to forcing it whenever your foot feels like it.
:plus1:

This applies to UP shifting only.

There is too much danger of forcing it into a lower gear at the wrong time if you try that when going down. :bluethum:
 

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The bike only has 4400 miles on it. I

4400 miles, ok go ahead and switch to synthetics and remember there is no turning back, (not that you would need to) do make your weekly visit to a parking lot and learn shifting techniques and really concentrate at what position you are putting your clutch lever at. For training tape a straw on the end of your clutch lever to really get a good view of what is going on, have fun and don't get frustrated.:bluethum:
 

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I didn't realize that, could you perhaps share why you think this is so??
Oh stop please! You really didn't realize that a machine designed to be shifted USING the clutch might be damaged by shifting gears under power WITHOUT using the clutch ?????

Give us a break and stop trolling for a fight. :fight2:
 

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Oh stop please! You really didn't realize that a machine designed to be shifted USING the clutch might be damaged by shifting gears under power WITHOUT using the clutch ?????

Give us a break and stop trolling for a fight. :fight2:
I wasn't talking to you, but if chose to respond the least you could do is answer the question.
 

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but thats what he does..
 

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but thats what he does..
This is not rocket science. It should be pretty obvious.

If you shift without using the clutch, there will be an increase in the wear on the gears. Unless you are REALLY good at it and have practiced a LOT that extra wear will become noticeable after a time. Just the practice needed to get proficient will cause extra wear. Can you get away with it without doing any MAJOR damage? Maybe. Maybe not. The fact that "YOU" have done it with no problem doesn't mean that everybody can. It is a gamble. It wasn't designed to work that way.

It's called common sense.
 

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The post I referenced stated that shifting with out using the clutch will shorten the life of your tranny, if he had said it takes a lot of practice to learn how to shift with out using the clutch, and if done wrong it will shorten the life of your tranny I would not have responded to him.

My question was not to try and start an argument, I was honestly wondering if he knows something that I don't.
 

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that comment wasnt about the use of a clutch, easy. that comment was refering to you. you are the one that generally trolls looking for fights and insulting people's intellegence level.
 

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I didn't realize that, could you perhaps share why you think this is so??
I'm pretty much going to go with easy rider's response although I don't always agree with the way he fires his flame cannon so quickly.

Basically the bike is meant shift using a clutch, meaning the load is removed from the transmission so that the gears can mesh correctly. Let's take shifting from 3rd to 4th as an easy example since 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio. Without load on the tranny (clutch In) the gear synchro's can match up the speed of the input shaft to the output shaft so that the gears mesh. When you shift without the clutch, these synchros become useless. Without the clutch shifting from 3rd to 4th you have to rev up so that the input shaft of the tranny is spinning a bit faster than the output shaft, release throttle so that you get a negative load and pop up to 4th at the exact time that both the input shaft and output shaft are spinning the same speed. This is the only time that 4th gear will slide in. Any small mistakes will damage the gears themselves and the synchro of that gear.

This is the same concept for every gear except in other gears the shafts don't spin at the same speed when the mesh occurs.

So unless your perfect. Your causing damage.
 

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Without load on the tranny (clutch In) the gear synchro's can match up the speed of the input shaft to the output shaft so that the gears mesh.
Good explanation!

I was always under the impression that a "constant mesh" transmission, like is found in almost all bikes, doesn't actually have any "synchro's" but has specially cut gears to make engagement without grinding possible without the extra weight and complexity of synchro's. True or not ???

I've seen inside of a couple of transmissions but never paid any real close attention to the details.
 

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I got to agree with ER here, your explanation makes sense as it would pertain to a manual transmission in a car, but I do believe most non Harley transmissions on bikes are different, my knowledge of how transmissions work is very limited but I too thought all the gears in bikes transmissions were spinning at the same speed all the time.
 

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I have been using a Synthetic blend for the last 2 seasons with good results. Saves a couple bucks a qt and seems better than standard oil.
Consumer beware; "synthetic blend", oils can have as little as 1% synthetic oil in the blend and still be legally called a blend. If the oil bottle doesn't state the percentage of synthetic oil present in the blend, it might be a very poor value.

Adding an old school dead dinosaur lube to a high tech synthetic oil only serves to reduce the performance and protection abilities of the synthetic oil anyway.

Most folks only change oil once per season, so when it comes to the protection of your expensive machine, don't hesitate to spend a couple of dollars more to get the best protection and performance by using a superior performing synthetic oil.
 

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GS1100, I have tried all kinds of oils in all the bikes I have owned. My M likes the blend better than dino, and I noticed no further improvement going to full synth. You did raise a good point, but I will continue to use the blend.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Two things - When I switch to synthetic, do I have to do anything special? Or is it just like a normal oil/filter change only adding in synthetic at the end.

Secondly - Just a statement, man do I love my new stock pipes. They are so nice & quiet. I appreciate the thoughts others have about liking loud pipes & could see the appeal of them when I was driving around with my Cobra's. But a nice quiet set is perfect for cruising around on a beautiful day & clearing your head.
 
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