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· Premium Member
4,574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We did this to my 1100 Friday afternoon:

Using the string alignment method after installing new Dunlop 208GPA's

Note: we used construction string taped to the rear wheel and attached to a couple of Motul oil jugs. Jack stands or something heavier should really be used. Especially in the freaking crazy-ass wind. You want to measure the alignment on the front wheel at a centerpoint below the front axle and the edge of the rim. I have a tape measure that is in millimeters, so that makes it real easy. You eventually want the string-to-rim edge equidistant on both sides of the bike. In this case, it was 38mms.

String duct-taped to rear wheel. You run the string from the rear-wheel to the front.


Put bike on rear stand. Run construction string from the front, loop through rear wheel, then back to the front of the bike. Make sure there are no obstructions (lowers, bellypans etc.) in the way of the string. THE STRING MUST BE UNOBSTRUCTED from the rear to front wheel. Ensure your handlebars are perfectly straight to the frame of the bike.

To adjust the distance, you need to:

1. Lock the bike in 1st gear, so the rear wheel won't roll when you pull on the string from the front.

2. Gently move the string in laterally until it is just touching the rear tire-edge.

3. Measure your distance between the edge of the FRONT wheel rim on both sides and the string. Use the front axle and measure straight down from that.

4. Take notes. Mine originally was 40mm on the right and 33mm on the left.

5. Put bike in neutral.

6. Use a screwdriver and roll the rear wheel backwards and place the screwdriver between the chain and the sprocket to force the wheel forward. Adjust the rear wheel angle by using the chain adjusters on the rear of the bike.

7. Lock bike in 1st gear

8. re-align and re-measure.

9. Repeat until the distance between the edge of the rim and the string on both sides of the front wheel are equidistant.

10. Use the screwdriver again and rotate the wheel backwards placing the screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain.

11. Tighten the axle nut.

12. Rotate wheel forward and remove the screwdriver.

13. Replace your cotter pin or hitch clip in the rear axle.


Now, by counting the flats on the axle adjuster nuts on the back of the swingarm, your bike wheels should always stay aligned when removing the wheels or adjusting the chain. i.e.: I counted 30 flats on the nut when removing Rick's rear wheel on Saturday morning. I re-counted them when we reinstalled the wheel, and guess what? PERFECT! It does work!

Sorry I did not post more pics. Was too busy doing the alignment.

- Nut

(EDIT: OOPS! Caught a couple of things that I missed cause I was TOO TIRED last night!)

· Premium Member
4,574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll try and shoot some more in-depth photos to help explain it better the next time I do it. It does make a huge difference on the track, I don't know how much it will matter on the street, but I'm sure it can only be positive.

- Nut

· Registered
35 Posts
I'd like to try this on my new sv650s. The only rigged part seems to be where you attach to the rear wheel with duct tape??? Seems to me if you pull hard on the string, the string will slip away from the tape.
Does each side of the string touch the rear tire in two places? Shouldn't the string be aligning off of the rear wheel, not the tire (as the tire could be out or round)?
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