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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

This is my first post here. I just bought a 1988 Suzuki 750 Intruder and, after riding it for about a week, I noticed I had to keep pulling the clutch further and further back for it to disengage until, eventually, it stopped disengaging completely. After reading some posts, I bled the clutch and it seemed to fix the problem. However, after about 4 or 5 days of riding, it started happening again.

I have read some other posts on here that say the master cylinder going bad is common with Intruders. However, in those situations it seemed like bleeding didn't work at all. What are the signs that the mc is going bad? Could bleeding the clutch help "fix" it for a few days before it starts having problems again? If it doesn't sound like the mc, what else should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance,
Kevin
 

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Change the clutch fluid- this should be done every year or two to prevent problems. Fluid breaks down over time, and accumulates little air bubbles and moisture, until the clutch just doesn't disengage anymore. Basically bleed it until nothing but nice, clean fluid comes out, flushing all the old fluid and junk out with it. Make sure you get all the crud out of the master cylinder too.

If the problem still comes back, you have a leak someplace letting air in. This could be the master cylinder going bad, or the rubber gasket under the master cylinder cap, or the bango bolt leaking, or the clutch master cylinder having a bad seal- I can't ell from here ;). You might want to consider replacing the clutch and brake hoses also- rubber breaks down over time, so if it is original it is WAY past the service life, and any little bits of rubber will clog up the works.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply.

I misspoke when I said I bled the clutch. What I meant is that I replaced the fluid (bleeding it in the process). So it does sound like there is a leak somewhere - which is what I was afraid of. Any tips on how to diagnose where the problem is? I'm not sure if the parts are original or have been changed so, I agree, I should probably replaced them anyway, but it would be nice to know what the problem is.
 

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If there is air getting in, then there is fluid is probably getting out. Start at the master cylinder and check for leaks. Around the cap, at the handle, at the banjo bolt, down the hose to each connection, at the slave cylinder. Look for any wet spots, or spots where dirt is sticking, or for any splitting or cracking in the line. The clutch slave cylinder and the master cylinder piston are the two most common areas for problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it was the throwout bearing, would replacing the fluid have any affect on it? It seems more likely to be a leak since changing the fluid or bleeding makes it functional for several more days before it starts to go out again.
 

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No, the throwout bearing has absolutely nothing to do with this. Ignore limitedbyfourkawiby2- he is the class clown around here. His posts are good for a laugh, but you probably know more about 14th century Russian poetry than he knows about motorcycles.
 

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I'm having this exact same problem. What was the solution in the end?
Welcome.
I think you are a lot more likely to get some useful information if you start a fresh thread and describe exactly what symptoms you are seeing and what has been done with the bike recently.
Also the model and year of your ride would help.
 

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The master and slave can both be rebuilt and the parts are cheap. My experience has been that a shotgun approach will not only fix the immediate problem but eliminate potential near future problems if done properly. If the seals in one component are compromised then they are most likely near failure in the other.
In other words, check for obvious leaks, get the seals or kits for both the master and slave, rebuild them both and get back on the road.
 
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