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I would change the lightbar to the Aux. plug in the headlight shell.

If you post a picture of your bike's front end, some one here will tell you which light bar you have.
 

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C50 Lightbar - Which one?

I would change the lightbar to the Aux. plug in the headlight shell.

If you post a picture of your bike's front end, some one here will tell you which light bar you have.
What fuse does that run off off..??
Was interesting to note that I had NO headlight or spotlight...
Hi and Lo Fuses were good... only blown fuse was P-SOURCE...

Looks like spotlights are wired into the low-beam leg of the headlight and grounded elsewhere.....

Here is a shot of the bike...
 

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The power source is the Aux.
10A HEAD-Hi fuse
10A Head-Low
10A Meter
15A Ignition- coil & fan motor
10A Signal- Indicator lights except High Beam
10A Power Source

30A Main fuse located under seat.

Some have just stuck an inline 10amp fuse between their spots and power source.

I have yet to add a light bar to my bike yet.
 

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I just bouht a c 50 used and never got a manual either

Does anyone know where i can download the PDF file of the owners manual for my C50 boulavard Please help too this is my first road bike too .
 

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the C50.. FI.. holds 15.5 liters or 4.1/3 us gallons, when the fuel in the tank drops below approx 4.0 litres or 1.0/0.9 us/imp. gal the indercator light flickers, when the fuel in the tank drops below approx 1.5 liters,0.4/0.3 us/impgals then the indercator light stays on, we do around 22 kilometers per liter, two up so when my light stays on I know I have to find gas asap or within the next 20ks hope this helps.....
 

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i jsut got a 06 c50t and love it i had it for 3 weeks now and sunday rideing only iam just over 700 witch ones better drilling the pipes or debaffleing eather or iam going to do one this weekend lol
 

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I am getting well over 50MPG with the K&N filter in mine. I got 148 miles out of 2.5 gallons of gas. When I had the Vulcan? I was getting 45MPG. I drilled the pipes and my MPG went down to 39/38 MPG. I also had to ride choked all the time, unless it was above 70 outside, and AFTER the motor was well warmed up. Fuel Injection makes a HUGE difference, no choke, no jet replacements with open pipes, and what not.
 

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Quick question, please. I'm looking for OEM parts for my wife's 2007 Boulevard C50. I haven't even been able to find a place on-line that lists the Boulevard C50. The drop down menus start with DL models. Is her bike from the Twilight Zone or what? Hadda friend suggest it might be the same as a VL800. Any body have any ideas? I figured you guys (not gender-specific) would know. She needs the rear, left turn signal bullet type housing. That super glue isn't going to last forever. Thanks a ton. Mikey.
 

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If you read your manual you will see the bike is a VL800K7 (2007).
The K5's and up are C50 (FI), the K1 to K4 are Volusia's (carbs).
The tank is smaller on the C50 because of FI.

Ebay has parts come up often, also posting in the for sale section here may turn up members who have gone with updates and have OEM parts in the garage they will sell.
 

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Something must be wrong with my bike because my '06 C50 gets about 100mi per tank of gas. I've got an FI2000R and some Cobra Streetrod Exhaust w/Slashdowns on it, but would that lower my mpg's?
 

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Maybe it's the rider that is the problem.

:p

How many miles on the bike?

Are you a rider who races from stop light to stop light?

Did you do the install of FI unit and pipes?
 

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C50 OEM parts

Quick question, please. I'm looking for OEM parts for my wife's 2007 Boulevard C50. I haven't even been able to find a place on-line that lists the Boulevard C50. The drop down menus start with DL models. Is her bike from the Twilight Zone or what? Hadda friend suggest it might be the same as a VL800. Any body have any ideas? I figured you guys (not gender-specific) would know. She needs the rear, left turn signal bullet type housing. That super glue isn't going to last forever. Thanks a ton. Mikey.
The only place I buy OEM parts is BoulevardSuzuki.com, Suzuki parts & Suzuki accessories, The #1 Suzuki Motorcycle Parts and Accessories Shop Probably the cheapest prices you will find for new. Choose your bike and look under parts fiche.
 

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Something must be wrong with my bike because my '06 C50 gets about 100mi per tank of gas. I've got an FI2000R and some Cobra Streetrod Exhaust w/Slashdowns on it, but would that lower my mpg's?
We would really need to know how the bike is running. Is it running hot? Then it is too lean. Exhaust popping on decel? Too lean. Black exhaust and gas smell? Running rich. Fouled plugs? Running rich. Either way will effect performance and mileage. Usually with a new exhaust you will be running on the lean side of the spectrum. If you are giving it a lot of gas frequently then your mpg will drop just like any vehical but you should still be getting in the +40's to lower 50's for mpg. I have posted this before on other threads for fine tuning the FI2000r and here it is again. Last time I will post it though as we do have a search.

**********THAT'S WHY THE FI CONTROLLER IS ADJUSTABLE**********
You will have to tune it for your bike. Someone elses settings are likely not right for your bike. The suggested settings from the manufacturer give you a good STARTING POINT to get you in the ballpark. I know, Cobra does not have a 'tuning guide' in their instructions, so you're kind of on your own, but other manufacturers publish these and they are available on the web. I typed up some tuning guidelines a while back, They are
somplace in the "C-90 Folder", I'll look later if I get time. As an example:
Turtle Joe and I have nearly identical bikes with all the same components. The FI controllers we use are made by Dobeck... same as a FI 2000/Techlusion... My settings are (think of a clock face) 9:00, 4:15, 6:45.
Joe's settings are 7:00, 2:45, 6:15. If you ride the bikes they run the same. If I set Joe's controller like mine the bike would run terrible and get poor gas mileage too. When I tune FI-2000/techlusion/Lloydz/Dobeck 2nd generation controllers I start from scratch. I pay no attention to the 'numbers' of where the pots are set. I tune the bike 'til it runs right and the settings are where they are. One might be 4, 5, 4 and one might be 5, 5, 5 and where the pots are pointing isn't what to tune by, is it?



You have to ride it to tune it. You can't tune the motorcycle without a load on it. Don't worry about the lights/colors/settings. TUNE IT.
left pot is idle/cruise/light throttle accelleration (less than 1/4 throttle).
middle pot in midrange accelleration. Right pot is wide open throttle above like 3800 RPM. Engine must be fully wamed up for 8 minutes first. Turn all pots all the way down (couterclockwise). Try to hold a steady 30-35 MPH in 3rd gear. The bike will buck and surge like a %%%%%. Increase the left pot (clockwise) in 1/2 hour increments on a clock face until it gets better.
Now do 15 minute changes until it will cruise steady at light throttle and on/off the throttle isn't abrupt. Now, increase the setting 15 minutes more and STOP. Set the third/right-hand pot equal to the 1st/left-hand pot for now. Hold a steady 35 MPH in 3rd gear for a couple of seconds then nail the throttle open and count 3 seconds. Repeat this a few times while increasing the middle pot in 15 minute increments until acceleration gets better... then it will get worse... when it gets worse, back up 15 minutes and stop there.
Get a Sharpie marker. Mark the speedometer at 40 MPH, 70 MPH and 90 MPH.
Find a deserted road where you are safe and won't get a ticket.
Run the bike at wide open thru the first 3 gears, shifting at the marks on the speedo to avoid the rev limiter. Adjust the 3rd/right-hand pot open 1 hour and try that.... go back where it was, then closed 1 hour and try that... one will be better... that's the way you want to go. Put it back where it was originally and adjust for best acceleration and quickest pull to the shift points. TIP: If the throttle is wide open and the bike is pulling... slowly let off
the throttle... if the bike accelerates better off-wide-open it's most likely too rich. This will get you really close. Fine tune in barely decernable turns to find the sweet spot on the idle/cruise pot for best drivability. Make ONE tiny change at a time... ride it a while... don't pass judgement right away.
You may also need a little tweak one way or the other on the middle pot... for best roll-on pull. After you ride it a while, you'll get a better feel for finding the sweet spot on that one too. Again, make ONE tiny change at a time... ride it a while... don't pass judgement right away. The bike will tell you what it needs... you just have to apply your knowledge of what pot
effects what, while listening to what the bike is saying.
 

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Only have close to 1400mi on it and it's my first bike. Bought the bike new last year. The shop did the install on pipes and FI controller. I put in the K&N airfilter. I may gun it a bit sometimes, but not a maniac with the throttle.....the bike doesn't run hot and everything else seems normal. I don't have any popping or smoke....
 

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First abig thanks to the advice here on the light bar, and the lights eating bulbs and fuses. I purchased a 2005 c50 with only 1800 miles in April 2008. I know, not even broken in. I replaced my large aux lights with smaller burners so I have the light I need close in. After a half grown red fox ran into my foot plate at 40 mph I am not ready to repeat this with a larger animal. I agree with the poor placement of the helmet lock and no view of the coolant level. My last zuki was a 82 GS850L . I kept it for 13 years and 60,000 worry free miles so yeah, Id buy again. PS remind me of this when I spend 20 minutes replacing a fuse. Nyah weh Daniel
 
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