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Change Oil in fall

You should change your oil BEFORE you put it away for winter storage, NOT in the spring.
You'r absolutely correct! :D

It's after running for whatever period of time that oil has all the crap and acids in it that can do damage and cause rust while it's sitting. Synthetic is much better too. You should be able to get 12K or more out of it if you use a synthetic filter and have far superior lubrication. Check out Amsoil.
 

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You'r absolutely correct! :D

It's after running for whatever period of time that oil has all the crap and acids in it that can do damage and cause rust while it's sitting. Synthetic is much better too. You should be able to get 12K or more out of it if you use a synthetic filter and have far superior lubrication. Check out Amsoil.
I use Castrol 20W50 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. The guy that owned it prior was using it so I'm going to continue to use it. Not sure how many miles he had on it so I changed it as soon as I bought it, along with all of the fluids, just to be safe. After talking to the folks at the Suzuki dealership they highly recommended the 20W50, especially since I live in an area where it gets pretty hot in the summer.

The owner’s manual recommends changing the oil @ the 1,000 mile point and then @ 6,000, 12,000, etc. The Haynes manual recommends every 7,500. This is based on normal oil and not synthetic, Synthetic is supposed to go longer. I will most likely change mine every couple of thousand or once a year, that's just me... :bluethum:
 

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I'm new to these forums and relatively new to motorcycles. I've been riding now for two seasons (Toronto, Canada) and decided to try changing my own oil and filter but I ran into some snags.
I've got a 2007 C50 Suzuki Boulevard and since owning it (used) I have change my oil about every 6,000 KM and have taken it to an authorized Suzuki shop. All I know is that I use non-synthetic oil but the service invoices don't specify the brand of oil used (they just list that 10W40 is the grade used, I never thought of asking before).

In an attempt to do my own oil change (with a buddy), I bought a Clymer manual and went to a reputable shop to get an oil filter and engine oil. I also have a DIY motorcycle hoist (CDN Tire last year) and I went out and bought a torque wrench so I could meet the manual specs about the oil pan drain bolt and filter re: specs for tightening. I thought I was pretty well set up to do the oil change, or so I thought...
The oil I bought to replace is Bel-EXL Mineral 4T 10W40) and the filter K&N 138, specific for Suzuki.
The snag I ran into was getting at the forward facing oil filter and removing it. I didn't buy the 'correct' filter wrench and after many tries of different types (caps, straps and a 'gripper' style) I gave up and just changed the oil (I know, this is not the best thing to do but I was stuck and needed to add oil back to my bike to get it home from my buddies garage). In using the gripper style oil filter wrench (Channel Lock - CDN Tire), I was starting to scrape and slightly crush the filter so I stopped.
Questions for the post:
1) Are oil filters generally on so tight that removing it is this difficult? Or could the service shop that I go to is putting them on exceptionally tight? My manual says to tighten the filter two full turns after the rubber gasket contacts the crankcase.
2) I've read on other sites that in some cases one needs to destroy the filter to get it off, IOW, ram a screw driver into the filter to then have a means to torque / twist it off. That sounded a bit severe and I was stuck with the dilemma, what if I do that and I still cannot release the filter? Needless to say I didn't go that route.
3) There is very little maneuvering room with this filter and my bike - it's in a very difficult spot to access. Would having the proper filter wrench make all the difference here or is there something else I am missing about removing the oil filter?

As it stands now, I am poised to return all the tools I bought (less the hoist) and the filter (unopened) and just go back to taking my motorcycle in to an authorized dealer which is a BIG disappointment. I was hopeful that I could at least do my own oil change! I feel I'm pretty good technically with tools and many DIY projects.
Any comments, thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.
 

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Just go to your local parts house and they should have a filter wrench that when you put a ratchet in the end and turn it it gets tighter. It will crush the filter a little bit, but thats ok. I just tighten my filter hand tight, been doing it since it was brand new and never had a problem. I change mine every 3000 miles and use suzuki 10w40 oil.
 

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Oil filters tend to be hard to take off after they have been on for a while, especially if someone put it on super tight to begin with. Most people don't realize this, but filters don't have to be on very tight at all to seal and not leak, so putting it on extra tight really gets you nothing, besides more headache once you have to remove it. When installing a new filter, once you begin to feel tension, an extra quarter turn is plenty in most cases. That said, the oil filter removal tool can be helpful. I wouldn't worry about scratching up the filter, it's going into the trash anyway. Does make me wonder why you had this much trouble. Make sure you are turning the thing the correct way! Righty-tighty, lefty-losy... lol!

The ramming of the screw driver method is very redneck, I have never thought of this nor tried it myself, but i actually think this could work very well. You just have to be very cautious not to slide off the filter and scratch or puncture something else, sounds like a hammer might help to make sure you puncture the filter well enough. This is also likely to be very messy because the filter will still have oil in it. Usually thought, this shouldnt be necessary if the filter is not installed too tight in the first place.

Oil changes are very simple, bud. Don't over think this, just get it done.

Oh and make sure you set your torque wrench to the lowest setting (probably 5 ft-lbs) after each use, don't leave it at 20 or whatever before putting it away, as that will cause it to lose it's calibration over time.
 

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Ha, never thought of that way.

At the beginning of the season, and ever 3K miles after that. Always change the filter.And don't forget to check it occasionally, if for no other reason than because it's entertaining to the neighbors to watch you hold up a 600 pound motorcycle while standing on your head..
Ha, never thought of that. The way I do it, is to put wooden boards under the kick stand, until the bike is just barely ready to tip over, and then holding the bike with one hand, I kneel down and look at that stupid window. Why could'nt the engineers at Suzuki used a dip stick?
 

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Change the oil and filter before putting the bike in storage for winter.( if you live in the north ) never leave dirty oil in the crank case if the bike is going to be sitting for a few months. do not !!! start bike every now and then once stored.. oil and filter should be changed every 5000klms. and the oil filter shoud be spun about 1 turn after making contact with the rubber seal. don,t forget to put oil on the rubber before installation.
 

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I change my oil every 3000 miles or at least once a year. I change the filter every other oil change. Change the oil and filter when you put the bike away in the winter...we dont do that in Florida...just ride on all year long.
 

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I should have changed mine every 3000 miles.
I was using high-end oil and my mechanic said 7000 miles was fine.... It was fine until I took a long trip (2500 -3000 miles) during a very hot summer. During my trip the bike began consuming oil at about 1 Qt/1000 miles.
I changed\refilled the oil just before the trip, twice during the trip and right after I got back.
I didn't realize how fast it was consuming the oil. I thought I had 2000 miles to go before my next change..... when the bike ran out of oil.

I now have a 2006 C50T, with extras, and a non-functional engine.... The bike is for sale.
If you have an engine, I have the rest.
 

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I now have a 2006 C50T, with extras, and a non-functional engine.... The bike is for sale.
If you have an engine, I have the rest.
This is the third place you have posted this.
In the future, please pick ONE sub-forum and don't duplicate.
Thanks.

P.S. You are assuming that oil failure caused the engine to fail.......and that might not be the case at all.
 

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everybody has a opinion here is what I do every 250 miles , I change the oil & filter its not that much to do. protection + my bike is in the suzuki news magizine full story page 9
 
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