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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I appreciate any responses on this.

I have a 1999 Suzuki intruder. It's the 1400 and is in pristine shape. I rode October and November, and it was fine, but now the following is happening:

It will start in neutral with the kickstand down. If you pull the clutch in, and try to go into first gear, it jumps forward and stalls.

The kickstand switch seems manually to be working fine, but just to be sure, I wedged it so it could not possibly be any further in.

I replaced the plates and fibers in the clutch assembly. They are not sticking.

I jumped the clutch neutral switch, and a new one is on the way; no effect, for now.

I'm not sure what else to try, but the searches across all forums seem to be either for dry clutches, or don't really apply to this situation. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I replaced the plates and fibers in the clutch assembly. They are not sticking.
You are probably wasting a lot of time and money here.

ALL wet clutches drag a bit even when working 100% properly.
It is possible that your idle speed is just too low and the drag is killing the engine.

Or the sidestand switch has failed electrically; it can be jumped too.
What happens if you put the sidestand UP before putting it into gear ??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The clutch cable appears pretty healthy, not stretched, and not broken. I haven't tried much in the way of adjustment, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You are probably wasting a lot of time and money here.

ALL wet clutches drag a bit even when working 100% properly.
It is possible that your idle speed is just too low and the drag is killing the engine.

Or the sidestand switch has failed electrically; it can be jumped too.
What happens if you put the sidestand UP before putting it into gear ??
What I said happens with the kickstand up. As I said, I put the kickstand up, then used a shim just to make sure that the key was depressed as far as possible (there was a little play, but not a significant amount.)
 

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i'm not familar with your bike. but your clutch seems to need adjusting.i would start at the clutch end of the cable.and then go the the lever.
 

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Take up any excess cable slack at the engine end of the cable. You need about 2 to 3mm free play at the clutch handlebar lever before any resistance is felt. The handlebar adjuster is used to adjust the excess out as the cable stretches and is there for easy access only.

If this does not fix your problem then you may need to inspect the clutch actuating mechanism....more often these days a simple rod with a flat on one side. As the clutch lever is pulled the cable rotates the rod so that the clutch push rod rides up the rounded section of the actuator rod and thus pushes the clutch pack apart causing it to slip.

Also your clutch pack may have a thicker plate that has to go in first or last which may need checking its in the correct order..

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Take up any excess cable slack at the engine end of the cable. You need about 2 to 3mm free play at the clutch handlebar lever before any resistance is felt. The handlebar adjuster is used to adjust the excess out as the cable stretches and is there for easy access only.

If this does not fix your problem then you may need to inspect the clutch actuating mechanism....more often these days a simple rod with a flat on one side. As the clutch lever is pulled the cable rotates the rod so that the clutch push rod rides up the rounded section of the actuator rod and thus pushes the clutch pack apart causing it to slip.

Also your clutch pack may have a thicker plate that has to go in first or last which may need checking its in the correct order..

good luck
Very helpful. Thanks for this.
 

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You want to adjust the cable so there is very little/almost no play in the cable. There are usually nuts on a threaded post at the end of the cable housing. Back the nuts off slightly, then adjust the posts out until the slack is gone, then tighten the nuts with the posts in that position. You might need to use a pair of pliers or wrench to hold things in place depending on your adjustment mechanism. Test the clutch again.

Sent from my SCH-i705 using Tapatalk
 

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From the description you provided it sounds like the clutch is not releasing. See if you can put it in gear with the engine not running, pull the clutch lever to release the clutch and then see if the bike will roll. It should roll with just a little effort. I was thinking that model had a hydralic operated clutch instead of cable operated clutch, been awhile since I have seen one close up.
 

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Been around a long time they make some great bikes...but like all mass manufacturers some bikes come out with problems sometimes that they dont want to do anything about. The M50 can have a very short cam chain life....many Honda's had a major issue with reg/rec and Yamaha's R1 had/has the same plus a few 2nd gear problems. Kawasaki sometimes have throttle lag...as do Yamaha....but this is usually a simple flash of the fuel maps...usually done for free at a dealer. Some of the Italian bikes have issues with electrical reliability as do some of the British bikes. German machines had a glitch in their flagship a few years ago but nothing I have heard to date. So in a nutshell whatever bike you decide upon needs to be researched a smidgen....go to a specific forum for the make and model and any faults will be well discussed...you decide if you can live with them.

Good luck
 

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Some Zuki models seem to have more "quirks" than other brands.

Find something you like and then come back here for a report.......regardless of the brand.
 
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