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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so this is my problem I took the carbs off and clean them put them back on and sync them. then took it for a drive and the rear carburetor just stop working the fuel is pumping in the carburetor but it's not firing I change the spark plugs and when I took the spark plug out it was completely black
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did a compression test today and both cylinders are reading 126 psi. So im guessing the compression is excellent. I have been fighting with trying to get the right mixture with the screw on the side of the carborator. I cant find the right setting. Ive never tried to sync the carbs or know how to sync them properly. I have all the tools to do so i just dont know how to. when i took the rear carb off there was tons of fuel that came out of the carb. When i let it sit and then i take off the k&n air filter fuel runs out.
 

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When i let it sit and then i take off the k&n air filter fuel runs out.
A float in the carb is stuck OPEN......or the needle valve has failed.

AND if there is an automatic fuel shut off in the petcock, it has failed too......or you are leaving it in the PRIme position.
Or there is not automatic shutoff and you are leaving it ON all the time.

IF......you let it sit that way very long, fuel will seep down into the crankcase and ruin your oil.
That probably has happened already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when I took out the needle valve it was completely backed up with dirt and built up grime and needle valve was stuck and it will not spring back and forth waiting for my new part to come in will give an update after it comes in thank you for all you help
 

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Carb cleaning is not an easy job it needs to be done in a very clean environment and done meticously. You may have done a good job on the carbs but if the rest of the fuel delivery system had debris left inside then it is very likely the problem you had was from there.You need to check the fuel lines/tank/filters etc as well.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Carb cleaning is not an easy job it needs to be done in a very clean environment and done meticously. You may have done a good job on the carbs but if the rest of the fuel delivery system had debris left inside then it is very likely the problem you had was from there.You need to check the fuel lines/tank/filters etc as well.

Good luck


I will definitely check the lines/tank/filters. thank u
 

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Re your oil...if it smells of fuel then it is contaminated...also a higher level is a give away too. Oil and a filter are cheaper than major engine damage so any chance of it being contaminated isnt worth the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you guys fixed my first problem! Thank you for the help! I have a new problem, I was riding down the road and my battery gate fell out and the battery dropped off and the bike shut off. It started to spark everything and started smoking quickly. I stopped the bike, picked the battery up off of the metal and called my dad. i picked up the bike and brought it home. The next day I replaced the battery. The bike acts like it does not have enough juice to start up. Im thinking it has to do with the decompression system? but im not sure
 

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Sounds like a short in the starting circuit. When the battery fell out what started smoking....any component that got hot enough to smoke will almost certainly be toast. You may have a short from the incident...time to start chasing circuits and starting components.


Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The yellow three wires going to the regulator rectifier....one of the wires is burnt. does that need to be replaced? could that be the reason im not getting spark to the spark plugs?
 

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i charged it and the bike tries to turn over sounds like there's too much compression
Sounds like a short in the starting circuit.
Sounds to me like the battery is shot.
Just charging the battery is not enough, it needs to be tested too.
My bet is that when you see 2 V at the coils, you will see less than 10 V at the battery itself.

You can test for hydro or compression lock by trying to turn it over with the plugs OUT.
 

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Re the burned wire...any wire that is melted will probably have cooked the componant it supplies. Your Reg/Rec needs to be in working condition to keep the battery fully charged and an even charge going through it...a 1400 twin will need a healthy battery to turn over. I wonder why a fuse didnt blow before the wire melted?

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I checked all the wires the three yellow wires were melted I ordered a new
Regulator/stator when I looked at the stator the coils are wrapped around what all melted and burnt up so I don't know if that was my problem just waiting for it to come in
 

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I tried turning it over with the spark plugs out and nothing all I heard was a lot of clicking
Regardless of whatever else needs to be done, your battery is DEAD and needs to be charged or replaced.
New batteries need charging too before being used.

when I looked at the stator the coils are wrapped around what all melted and burnt up so I don't know if that was my problem just waiting for it to come in
Whatever you tried to do in the middle of that post.......it didn't work.

A blown stator will cause the battery to drain because there won't be any charging.
The regulator you ordered probably was NOT necessary as the stator won't normally kill the R/R when it fails.......but you likely are stuck with it now as electrical parts normally aren't returnable.
 
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