[ricky]

My oil drain plug/oil pan is stripped on my 1990 Katana GSX 750f. Does anyone know anything about tap and diving this kind of bike? Also I lost the drain plug does anyone know the exact original size of the plug, 1/2" or is it metric? Thanks

 

[Jonathan]

I have heard of an after marker device that you can purchase, but in the case of keeping everything safe, since you are having slight problems now, I would contact your local bike shop and they can supply what you need.

 

[ricky]

Let me clarify, I was in a rush when I first posted. So the oil pan thread where the oil drain plug screws in is stripped. I contacted a dealer and they told me something about a timesert. They quoted me a total cost with labor of $450, another dealer said $300. I thought to myself: "Are they hella crazy or what?"

So I called a friend who works on bikes and he said I might be able to use a tap and dive which basically rethreads the hole by enlarging it while making new threads for a slighty larger drain bolt. The problem is I need to know the original size of the bolt, which happend to fly out onto the road a couple days ago when I was riding. Luckily I was close to home and I walked the bike back. But I lost all my oil and the bolt. So I need to know the size of the bolt in order to get a slightly larger one and any advice from anyone who has done this tap and dive procedure before.

Thanks

 

[98G]

Were I in your position I'd be tempted to buy a new oilpan and install it myself.

Helicoil is a rethreading device.

98G

 

[ricky]

Thanks for the advice,

I did consider replacing the oil pan but this is an involved process. The oil pan is $79 and I would need to take apart a considerable section of the bike. Which means I'd need to buy a lift and the proper tools ie rachet set which i currently do not own.

Tap and diving is a relatively cheap solution, 60$ max, and doesn't require me to take apart the bike.

 

[Drake]

If you are thinking about drilling and tapping your oil pan, at least remove it first. Tapping Aluminum isn't all that simple and you want as stable and level a surface as possibly. Also, remember you need your new bolt to fit up as close to flush as possible (as in make sure you are tapping perpendicular to the plane of the oil pan), or you gets yourself a nice mild drip. Personally, you could probably find a replacement pan that would work out cheaper than the possible aggravation of fiddling with it and not tapping it right. Aluminum isn't too forgiving. Plus there's the game of finding a nice flanged bolt to use for your new oil pan plug.

Helicoiling would probably work a bit better if you are intent on not buying a replacement oil pan. The person doing it would drill out your hole to a larger diamater and then insert the helicoil thread and then get your bolt in there so you are left using the same bolt as before with a diameter of hole which is also the same.

Good Luck.