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New to the sight so I hope I did this correctly! I have a vstar 650 its a 2007. When I pull the clutch in to change gears motor revs. The throttle does not seem to be sticking, bike is warmed up, just seems to take time for it to return to an idel when I rev it or as stated am in the process of shifting. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I have a vstar 650 its a 2007.
Welcome.
First, we need to eliminate the obvious:
How long have you been riding total.......and how long with this bike ?
Has it always done that as long as you have had it ?

Does it "hang" if you just rev it a bit sitting still in neutral ?
In addition to a sticking cable or throttle mechanism, that is sometimes caused by leaving the "choke" on too long or by an air leak around the carbs......assuming that it HAS carbs.
 

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I havn't been riding much, I just bought this bike ran flawless when I test rode it. I trailered it home and nothing but trouble. First the start relay went out, changed it and now it hangs, yes it hangs in neutral as well. I have checked for vaccum leaks around carbs as well. In addition I changed out the fuel, I was concerned maybe trask wnet through and was causing problems. As far as the choke I only use it to crank it and then shut it off. I appreciate any help.
 

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Oh yea was gonna mention 2007 bike with only 2500 miles
Time for a dose of the "magic elixer" !!

A double dose of Berryman's B12 Chemtool in the gas might fix you right up......might.
Need to ride it through several hot/cold cycles with that in the gas.
Using the spray version down the throats (not too much) migh help speed the process up a bit.
Draining the float bowls along the way wouldn't hurt either.

This also would be a good time to catch up on other routine maintenance......like plugs and air filter.

Is it all stock......air filter and pipes ??

I recently bought an '06 with about that same mileage and nothing short of a manual carb cleaning would get it right.
The dealer picked up the tab for mine........thankfully.
 

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Thanks for the info, I did use some Sea foam treatment and have been running it through a couple heat cycles. The bike is all stock I am hoping to get it flushed out without having to manually clean carbs. Thanks for the help.
 

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Thanks for the info, I did use some Sea foam treatment ........
SeaFoam was originally designed as a fuel stabilizer and is NOT a really good carb cleaner.

Before you take the time and expense and trouble of a tear-down cleaning...........drain out, or run out, most of the gas with Seafoam in it. Drain the bowls too. Put back a half a tank of fresh gas with B12 at the amount recommended for a FULL tank. It it starts acting different after a couple of test runs, finish filling the tank and ride it out.

If it doesn't help, you have lost very little.
 

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May I also recomend using Premium Fuel with 0% Ethanol as well. Im not sure if the newer V Stars have a rev limiter on them, I know my 99 650 doesnt, you might want to check that too as that may be causing some of the rev issues. Im not totally convinced this is a fuel related issue. Sounds more mechanical than anything else. You could also try replacing your clutch springs as well.
 

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May I also recomend using Premium Fuel with 0% Ethanol as well.
Sure, you may recommend anything that you want. 8)

But with the price difference for premium running as much as 40 cents a gallon or more in some places, the difference would have to be LARGE to justify the extra cost.

Just the extra octane isn't needed and is a waste of money.
If there is any advantage, it would be from the non-alcohol pure gas.
 

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Hi Guys,

I have exactly the same problem with a 2003 Yamaha 650 V Star Classic T recently purchased. It only has 2500 miles (3800 km) on it.

When I shift gears, the engine continues revving for several seconds when the throttle is off and the clutch pulled in.

I am trying some SEA FOAM, but no difference so far..... I think I will have to take it to the shop.

It also backfires a bit untill it is good and warm.


Any Ideas??????

Best regards,

Bill
 

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I am trying some SEA FOAM, but no difference so far..... I think I will have to take it to the shop.

It also backfires a bit untill it is good and warm.
This could be a sign of a vacuum leak.......but most likely is just a gummed carb.
Does the choke seem to work like it should........that is, it runs better with the choke partly ON until it warms up ??

To possibly save yourself $120 in shop charges to manually clean the carb, I suggest that you try a real carb. cleaner after you burn through most of the SeaFoam.
Berrymans B12 Chemtool and Gumout are good ones........and are usually available at auto parts stores and WalMart.......for about 1/3 the price of the "miracle snake oil" product.
 

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Hi Easy Rider,

Yes, the choke works as it should. It is always required when starting the bike cold. The bike start well but is sensitive to opening the throttle before it warms up a bit. Too quick a twist on the throttle will kill the engine until it has warmed up.

It does backfire a bit on engine de-acelleration but this reduces as the engine is warmed up.

I will have a look today to see if I can spot any cracked hoses etc that could cause a vacuum leak.

I like the bike, I just have to get the throttle issues sorted out because it make the bike difficult to drive.

Best regards and thanks for the advice !!!!!!

Bill
 

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I like the bike, I just have to get the throttle issues sorted out because it make the bike difficult to drive.
Since this ended up being a multiple bike thread............

Is yours 100% stock, and is the air filter firmly in place and not damaged ??

Have you checked the throttle cables and springs for binding at both ends ??
Ditto for the choke cable.

You did not try to set the idle speed when the engine was cold, did you ??
 

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Hi Easy Rider,

The bike is 100% stock with no modifications.

I have not checked the air filter. I will have a look at it.....

The throttle cables seem OK. They seem to work freely and there is no binding. I can see the linkage to the carbs under the tank. The linkage does "back off" completely to the stops when the throttle is released.

The idle speed is OK (800 - 900 rpm) once the engine has warmed and the choke is off. I have not messed with the idle speed, because I am happy where it is.

I see there is a guy with a video on YouTube that has the same problem.


Best regards,

Bill
 

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Hi Guys,
I decided that I would just take the bike to the local dealer and let an experienced mechanic sort it out......

It turned out to be a carb clean and a carb synchronization. Two hours labour and no parts. I would have done it myself, but the carb sychronization part seemed a bit much for the novice (me).

The mechanic said the bike was not used enough (2500 miles in 9 years) and the carbs had gummed up from sitting with old fuel. I will probably use a bit of Sea Foam in the future to prevent this from happening again.

It seems to run fine now. Now I just need a good four hour tour to clean the pipes :bluethum:

I have fixed some of the things I did not like about the 650 V Star Classic....

- Clutch - CLEVVER Lever and SERITEC Spring kit. Dramatic improvement in clutch with these two devices. I highly recommend these kits.

- Seat - Was Uncomfortable - Local upolstery shop re-profiled and repadded seat. Much better.

- Added simple to install (one wire wrapped to spark plug lead) Tachometer and hour meter.

- Brake light- I have a Custom Dynamics 100 LED tail light and strope flasher kit arriving tomorrow. I want to be seen.

Best regards,

Bill
 

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How much of the Berrymans B12 Chemtool do you add to the tank? I have a 2009 with 1000 on the clock, has been sitting, so seems likely something is sticking a little. I filled the tank up, put some chemtool in, refilled, put some more in. Still sticking, but seems a little better...
 

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Still sticking, but seems a little better...
What exactly does that mean ?
If it feels like something is sticking mechanically with the throttle, then you need to clean the carb throat....inside and out.....and the linkages at the carb with some spray carb cleaner. Also lube the cables if you thing they might be sticky.

With a bike in your situation, I use about twice the amount recommended on the can. I think that works out to be 2 oz. per gallon.......so for a 3 gallon tank, about 6 ounces. After that, the standard 1 oz per gallon should keep things clean.
 
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