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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd throw this out there for reference.

If you own a 2006-2010 Vulcan 900, there is apparently a known issue regarding premature stator death. The issue, according to what I have read and Kawasaki apparently realizes, is that the stator is not cooled appropriately during operation thus causing the failure after 12-15,000 miles.

The fix is to replace the rotor bolt when replacing the stator. The Kawasaki part number is 92154 and has a hole down the center to allow for oil flow. The old part, 92153, ran $4.20 or so. The new part now runs $35.00 and has been proven to fix the issue. Kawasaki apparently sees the profit potential here and priced the bolt appropriately. LOL!

Here is a link to a Vulcan 900 group on Facebook that discusses the issue: https://www.facebook.com/groups/23024166328/files/

FWIW.
 

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Oops. Does that mean that you are having the problem ??

I'd still like to arrange a meet-up some time. I'm back home now for a while.
 

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Oops. Does that mean that you are having the problem ??

I'd still like to arrange a meet-up some time. I'm back home now for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oops. Does that mean that you are having the problem ??

I'd still like to arrange a meet-up some time. I'm back home now for a while.
Yeah. It’s struggling to start so I parked it and checked voltage. It’s way too low.

Bought the stator, rectifier, gasket and now awaiting the bolt so I can replace it too while I’m in there.

Once it’s fixed, I’ll ride up there for a visit.
 

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Yeah. It’s struggling to start so I parked it and checked voltage. It’s way too low.
It's too late now but I'd like to know the details of exactly how and when you checked the voltage.

Checking the battery voltage while the engine is OFF might tell you something about the health of the battery........but it tells you virtually nothing about the charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I checked the voltage while running and it was around 11.5v or so. Nonetheless, I'm thick in the middle of replacing it. It's taking a little longer than anticipated because I have two issues right now:
1. I need to go buy a rotor holder so I can replace the stator rotor bolt with the new fangled one that cost me $35.
2. I need to confirm where to properly cut the leads to the stator so I can crimp the new one on.

Oh yeah, and
3. It was 35 here in Orlando this morning (but you knew that). :D
 

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I checked the voltage while running and it was around 11.5v or so.

1. I need to go buy a rotor holder so I can replace the stator rotor bolt with the new fangled one that cost me $35.

2. I need to confirm where to properly cut the leads to the stator so I can crimp the new one on.
11.5 running indicates a bad stator or regulator for sure. Did you measure the AC voltages on the stator windings ? Or is is obviously burned out ??

YOUR mention of a rotor bolt being part of the problem is the FIRST I have heard about that.

I thought that the new stator would come complete with the connector and yellow leads already installed.

It was 32 here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This stator is made by Rick’s Motorsports. I bought one from them for my old Suzuki when I had it. They are good. This one came with the wires and the connectors but you have to put them on yourself based on how you run the cable. I’ll figure it out.
 

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I have read so much on this stator issue, it leaves me dazed and confused. Did Kawasaki correct the problem in late model 900 Classics? Is my 2017 Classic LT good to go?

Part of my reason for asking (aside from just knowing the status of my bike) is that I have ordered 35W H-3 bulbs from my Kawa dealer to replace the 25W bulbs in my Cobra light bar. My dealer only carries the 35W style, and Cobra tells me 25W or 35W are okay in that light bar. I don't know that either of them account for the stator issue when they put that extra load on the charging system. If my bike was built after the issue was corrected, I won't worry about the difference in wattage.
-thanks

Thought I'd throw this out there for reference.

If you own a 2006-2010 Vulcan 900, there is apparently a known issue regarding premature stator death. The issue, according to what I have read and Kawasaki apparently realizes, is that the stator is not cooled appropriately during operation thus causing the failure after 12-15,000 miles. FWIW.
 

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I don't know that either of them account for the stator issue when they put that extra load on the charging system. If my bike was built after the issue was corrected, I won't worry about the difference in wattage.
The "fix" did not increase the total charging system capacity, much if any.

How many bulbs does your light bar have ? And why do you need to replace the bulbs ??

With 3 bulbs, that is an additional 9 amps or so.....which might be put you right on the edge of system capacity and make it hard to keep the battery charged properly.
 

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Well, after nearly finishing my lengthy reply and losing it, I'll try again:

I had that concern about the charging capacity right up front, even as the dealer was installing the bar, but was assured that Kawasaki anticipated the owner adding accessories and allowed for that in the design. This light bar is the only electrical accessory I've added on this bike.

The Cobra 04-0468 light bar (with On-Off switch) carries two bullet lights, each with a 25W H-3 bulb. I'm replacing the left one because it stopped working. I put an ohmmeter across it and it showed infinite resistance. The filament does not look burned through, but you can't always see those things.

While surfing the web for info I ran across a post on a Volusia forum where an owner had two left bulbs burn out in a year. I called Cobra to ask if they had a known problem with the left side of this bar and the answer was no. They told me I could replace the bulb(s) with 25W or 35W, but no larger. I cancelled the 35W bulb my dealer carries in stock and placed an order for a 25W.

Unless I start losing bulbs regularly, I'll assume I got a weak one from Cobra.

If the stator issue was really corrected years ago, I'll also assume mine is not on borrowed time.

-thanks!

The "fix" did not increase the total charging system capacity, much if any.

How many bulbs does your light bar have ? And why do you need to replace the bulbs ??

With 3 bulbs, that is an additional 9 amps or so.....which might be put you right on the edge of system capacity and make it hard to keep the battery charged properly.
 

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I cancelled the 35W bulb my dealer carries in stock and placed an order for a 25W.
Wise move. Sometimes putting a higher wattage bulb in will melt parts, like plastic lenses.

Have you looked closely at your owners manual to see if it says what the extra charging system capacity is ??
Some manufacturers started doing that a few years back.

Either way, your dealer could find out........if he really wanted to.
It might be in the shop manual too.
 

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Thought I'd throw this out there for reference.

If you own a 2006-2010 Vulcan 900, there is apparently a known issue regarding premature stator death. The issue, according to what I have read and Kawasaki apparently realizes, is that the stator is not cooled appropriately during operation thus causing the failure after 12-15,000 miles.

The fix is to replace the rotor bolt when replacing the stator. The Kawasaki part number is 92154 and has a hole down the center to allow for oil flow. The old part, 92153, ran $4.20 or so. The new part now runs $35.00 and has been proven to fix the issue. Kawasaki apparently sees the profit potential here and priced the bolt appropriately. LOL!

Here is a link to a Vulcan 900 group on Facebook that discusses the issue: Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Owners.

FWIW.
Thank you for the post! I bought a new rear tire in August last year, put about 1,000 kms on bike and alternator quit. Parked bike for winter as we had a lot of other chores to address befor attacking alt issue. Now I am getting ready to pull machine apart and replace stator and this info is very appreciated😊
 

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Now I am getting ready to pull machine apart and replace stator and this info is very appreciated😊
While the odds are good that the stator itself is the problem, there are other things that can fail too.
You really should test the stator before you rip it out and buy a new one that you might not need.
 
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