Won't that ProKleen stuff just trap the dirt in the towel you're washing the bike with and scratch the paint? I would think rinsing it off first, if visibily dirty/dusty, would be a good idea, even if it's just with a low pressure hose?
Quoting the linked article from above:
If your off road vehicle is only slightly dirty, it's best to "dry" clean it with the aid of a stiff-bristled nylon brush and some damp rags rather than subjecting it to an unnecessary flood of water.
Don't start a thorough washing unless you have enough time to completely dry your vehicle and lightly lubricate its bare metal areas. This reduces the possibility of corrosion or rust. Stuff a rag in the silencer outlet, to keep water from getting in. (Be sure to remove it before starting). Avoid pointing the stream of water into the air box, at the ignition components up under the fuel tank, or at the steering head and suspension pivot bearings.
Accumulated dirt should be loosened with a shower of water, and brushes. Various shapes of household cleaning brushes are great for removing dirt from the many tight contours of your machine. Ride the bike for a few minutes after washing, if possible. The engine and brake heat, combined with the blow-drying effect, evaporate water and condensation. This minimizes the possibility of corrosion of rust problems. Lightly oil any metal areas that are worn bare.
As soon as the chain is dry, lubricate it thoroughly and wipe off any excess lubricant. This is important because the chain can begin to rust within hours after washing. Remove the ignition cover and wipe away any moisture. Leave the cover off for a couple of hours to let the ignition cavity air dry, or use compressed air to lightly blow-dry the area.
What about coin-operated spray washer? They're tempting but, in the long run, your investment will hold up better if you avoid them. The high-pressure spray can penetrate the dust seals of the suspension pivot points and steering head bearings driving dirt inside and needed lubrication out.