[Jammer]

Ok my Gixxer just got a new set of tires from the dealership. Dunlops..208 front and rear. Yes I know first that I could probably have gotten better or cheaper tires. Pricing of the rear and front were 160 and 129.

Ok what I was told by their parts manager...drive it 50 miles like I was driving on water. Then check the tire pressure. After the first 50 miles I can run my finger down the tire and I see the oil from the tire. If I see this should I burn out and wipe it clean? I let the bike sit for about 15 minutes and the tire leaves no mark now on my fingers. I looked in the manual and it say tire break in is about 75 miles.

The question is..is there anything else I should do to break these tires in properly?

 

[GIXXER-Mike]

My repairman told me that new tires break in between 75 & 100 miles. My manual states 100 miles.

I would say to lean lightly in curves & just sway from side to side gingerly on straight-a-ways to scuff 'em up a bit. My personal belief is that it depends on the rider. We don't all ride the same. You may ride harder & have your tires ready by 75 miles whereas I may need 120 miles.

In any event, be safe!

 

[87gsxrnut]

One hot lap will get the scrubbed in.

Take it easy for about 100-miles.

- Nut

 

[Jammer]

easy but tuff question. What is considered as easy? Everyone I would say about 2 miles I sway back and forth to see if they have good traction..so far so good. It's easy for me to put on 60 miles a night just driving in town.

 

[87gsxrnut]

Don't ride in the rain. Don't gas it hard around corners. Let your tires warm up a bit before hanging it out.

- Nut

 

[Jammer]

what about if I see the oil on the tires..should I burn out and burn it off..or would that do nothing but waste rubber?

 

[87gsxrnut]

The mold release (NOT OIL) will eventually work it's way off. The only place for burn-outs is the dragstrip.

- Nut

 

[Janis]

easy but tuff question. What is considered as easy? Everyone I would say about 2 miles I sway back and forth to see if they have good traction..so far so good. It's easy for me to put on 60 miles a night just driving in town.

There's not an exact amount of miles for tires break-in, it depends on your driving. If you ride at a track it would take a couple of laps to be perfect.
Just go by degrees. Increase gradually your bends and cornering speed. Try to get to know how they react to your actions.

As for the burnout, that's not a great idea, 'cause heating + cooling the is what deteriorates a tire. Plus a burn out won't affect the sides.
Oh btw, that's not oil on your tires, be serene.

ciao, Janis

 

[Nexus242]

As for the burnout, that's not a great idea, 'cause heating + cooling the is what deteriorates a tire. Plus a burn out won't affect the sides.

ciao, Janis

Wouldn't that be considered heat cycling them.

 

[87gsxrnut]

Wouldn't that be considered heat cycling them.

Yes. But since she is from Italy, I think her description was more accurate for someone who doesn't know about it.

FWIW: Heat cycling is more critical to race tires than street tires. Street tires can be heat cycled thousands of times and still retain decent grip. Race tires it is only a few times before they are done.

- Nut

 

[Janis]

As for the burnout, that's not a great idea, 'cause heating + cooling the is what deteriorates a tire. Plus a burn out won't affect the sides.

ciao, Janis

Wouldn't that be considered heat cycling them.

As far as I know, a proper heat cycling should have a 'soft' temperature curve, where the tire is gradually heated, then sustained at a specific temperature, and finally slowly cooled.
I do not think a burn out holds these requirements.
Was that a rhetorical question, by chance?

 

[Janis]

Wouldn't that be considered heat cycling them.

Yes.

I'd say no.

But since she is from Italy [...]

If I got your sentence right, in this case, this fact has nothing to do with what I meant.
I do not consider burn out a heat cycling system...

 

[87gsxrnut]

As far as I know, a proper heat cycling should have a 'soft' temperature curve, where the tire is gradually heated, then sustained at a specific temperature, and finally slowly cooled.

Yup. I was being a smart-ass.

- Nut

 

[Uncle Bob]

Burn out is not a good way of breaking in tires, you're trying to wear off the unmolding coumpound they use in the manufacturing process. Burn outs will not remove the stuff from the sides and will only waste expensive rubber and potentially create a flat spot on the center of the tires.

Just a question of taking it easy for the first 100 miles or so. Don't ride it in a straight line for 100 and then hit the twisties cause the coumpound will still be on the sides. Just gradually increase your lean angles and you'll be fine.

 

[imadazhell]

The easiest and quickest way to remove the Mold Release compound ( slippery oil-like substance) from any tire is to spray brake cleaner onto a shop rag and wipe the entire tread down. It wont degrade the rubber because it evaporates too quickly, and it cuts right through the slime. My dealer didnt scrub my new rear tire in and I almost dumped my bike when I made the first turn after pulling out of his shop! Thats when I heard about this trick from some more experienced riders.

 

[themeatmanlandry]

Always make sure to put some sort of tire shine on your tires before a track day.




























NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!